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The Halo Or The Egg?

Mikey D

I suck
Sep 14, 2002
2,087
57
83
39
Birmingham
Eggs just plain suck.
I've seen plenty of players say they love the eggs and wont ever go to the halo, but are using them now.

I cant stand how far back they sit. Plus as im always sliding, I could guarantee busting a feedneck because of the pivotting action and me being a clumsy idiot!

Revvy for backup should anything go wrong or if you want to one ball everyone at training!
 

Lucky

Platinum Member
Sep 1, 2004
1,556
1
63
58
rochester, UK
If it will fit, you can use any motor. But before you go down that road remember that for example, my z board is putting out 16+volts to the motor. now try and find a miniture motor of the correct size at that voltage!!!!!!
Just go and buy a halo etc:p
 

Lucky

Platinum Member
Sep 1, 2004
1,556
1
63
58
rochester, UK
For everyone that hates eggs there will be someone that loves them, so that's no basis for argument. Performance wise they are good and reliable if your not hammering them, but to go that bit further you either need to sit down with lovetones bucket of motors or buy the halo:cool:
 

seany boy

(. Y .)
May 25, 2005
577
0
41
York / Manchester
Visit site
Might have been posted before, but meh...

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*EASIEST* Egg Paddle Mod BPS increase -- ~1.5-2
Cut off all your paddles but two and keep them in a straight line. Reinforce them with something long and thing like a Popsicle stick or sewing needle.

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Z board BPS increase -- ~3
Buy and install VL's Z board upgrade.

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Glory Hound's Gear Shave Mod BPS increase -- ~1-3 (depending on how well your egg was made)
How to do it is pretty simple. Well I'll give you guys the simple text only description now and later hopefully one with pretty pictures. Ok?

To begin with I had noticed my EVOII hopper was somewhat slower than the one a friend of mine had (Hi Ecco! You gave me the idea to do it), even using the same batteries, same board, same paint and everything. My hopper was also sounding louder than his. This got me thinking that there had to be some kind of resistance in the motor unit, perhaps the tolerances of the fit of the plastic gears inside?
What I did was I removed the motor unit from the eggo and opened it with a small electronics screwdriver.
I checked the fit of the gears and found them being slightly too tight a fit. I removed the center one and very carefully filed the outer teeth of the gear down a tiny tiny bit. Then I used a hobby knife to remove shavings and to scrape the bottoms between the teeth slightly. Then I checked the other gears, but they fit very well together. I cleaned all the gears from any plastic residue from the work on the middle gear. I also removed the grease internally, though only because I thought it might have little plastic shavings in it, and lubed the gears up with what I had at hand -PMI paintball gun oil. Any paintball gun oil would do nicely I think.
Finally I re-assembled the motor and then the hopper.
And that's about it. Doesn't sound too complicated does it?
Just be sure to note the placement of the gears, well they only fit one way but it helps a lot if you remember how they are supposed to be placed anyway before taking them apart.
Be careful, be gentle and even with the filing down of the gear and generous with the oil.

Also, the 9.6v batteries I use probably give about an extra 1 bps faster feed rate. So with normal batteries perhaps you'll get "only" 22-24 bps?
This is much easier to do if you photo each step of the way. Like, take it apart and photograph how the gears fit together.

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Servo Mod BPS increase -- depends on the servo (have gotten eggs up to 25 bps in drop tests and have them perform flawlessly on the field)
Buy the servo of a nitro RC car, plane, helicopter, etc., and install it in place of the stock servo. Have only played with this mod in an already installed egg. I cannot help if you can't figure out how to attach it.

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Pure Energy's Mod BPS increase -- ~1-2
What you need:
- Egg 2
- revy impeller
- drimmel preferably
- some type of sheers
- screw driver

Process :

1.) take apart the egg down to the motor.

2.) unscrew the Tiny screw that holds the impeller onto the motor. Its accessable from the top.

3.) Prepare your revy impeller-- put the revy impeller onto the motor in place of the old egg impeller (note its a hex shaped nob it fits on.) you will then see that the propeller has 2 problems. 1 the fins drag on the tray of the egg and 2... It sits a litle too high causeing balls to get up under and potentially jam. Here is where I did my magic. Take the impeller back off. The white hex knob on the motor needs to be shaved down some so the impeller sits lower in the cone. To do this, take your drimmel or other tool and shave it down in incriments just af raction of an inch..maybe 1/8th. Dont shave it too far that the threads in the knob are gone. Now take your sheers and simple clip off the propeller blades so they clear the inside cone by about an 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch. This will cure the problem of balls going under the propeller and the dragging of the blades. (You may choose to file down the cut blades for less chance of a blender, I had no problem of such ) and make sure you dont drimmel down too far that its past the hex shapped fitting.

4.) Re-assemble egg including the screw holding the impeller to the motor.

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[G0D] Mods -- Allows ~50 more balls to be held in Egg as well as fix a broken battery door

1- [G0D]'s Capacity Mod :

*purpose -
~allows for your egg to holder 250+ paintballs
*supplies needed -
~ dremel
*procedure -
~completely disassemble your egg
~remove the clear ball ramp
~get your dremel out with a small sanding style bit
~dremel out the ball ramp built into the front of the egg (make sure you don't leave any sharp pieces of plastic un-dremeled. small imperfections are ok)
*pictures -
~http://img29.echo.cx/img29/1926/10111418ms.jpg

2- [G0D]'s Battery Door Mod
*purpose -
~fix to broken battery doors
*supplies needed -
~file/sandpaper/dremel (any one of those are fine)
~drill or something to make small holes
~elastic string
~sliding clip (type of thing on coats : see pics below)
*procedure -
~take off the front piece of battery door which keep it on egg
~drill 2 holes on each side of the battery door, evenly spaceing them
~drill 2 holes above battery door on egg proportionately placing them
~drill hole in the middle of battery door
~this part may be confusing, modify to what suits you : take the string and route it through the holes so that the middle of the string comes through the hole drilled in bottom of battery door
~place clip on the extruding piece from middle
~tighten to keep door shut
~release to open
*pictures -
http://img29.echo.cx/img29/3707/10111381qj.jpg
http://img29.echo.cx/img29/2227/10111403fa.jpg

taken from http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...hreadid=534535


P.s halos look cooler and you can get sparkly purple shells for them :)
 

manike

INCEPTIONDESIGNS.COM
Jul 9, 2001
3,064
10
63
Cloud 9
www.inceptiondesigns.com
Originally posted by fred1
Now that the Vlocity has come out you have all the advantages from the egg (which were what you might ask??? = 50 extra balls) in a compact and logical design...
Not true, it doesn't hold much more paint than a halo. The most someone can cram in extra is 20 balls but that's without filling the feedneck tube up (Halo gets more in the feedneck tube). In general it only holds about 5-10 more balls with regular paint. The video in the link is with reball which are somewhat smaller.

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=1315333

Also, as for the design being compact and logical? yeah it's the same as a halo, but with a fatter bum. :p Check out the images in that link, or actually I'll post them here...

The VLocity is grey from the spray paint used to make the surface dull so I could 3D scan it for size comparisons. Right click then "save as" Click here to watch halovsvlocity

Also, size comparison images.

First off I made the comparisons from the bottom of the neck of the loader, as this is how they would both come stock. Then I levelled them out at the lowest point you could make them fit into a feed neck if you were to cut the necks.

BTW, that is the actual CAD of the Halo and a 3D scan of the VLocity accurate to around 0.002"... so you don't get much better of a comparison than this. :D

First with the bottom of the feednecks at the same height.