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Racegun

Flash-Bugout

doin' other stuffs
Jul 6, 2001
1,282
0
61
need to get hold of Tank for an exit
Crazy high or Crazy low? (or even crazy horse?)

$1400 sounds about right, but when you compare that cost to other top end cockers.........
Smart Parts US list price for an Evolution is $1350

In the UK a new Evo X with Race grip is around £1350 (translated to US dollars = around $2000)

I'm personally thinking it's a bargain, and have started wondering if I actually need to eat next academic year, or can I spend my food budget on a halfie :D)
 

Inferno

Paintball Addict
Originally posted by Flash-Bugout
Crazy high or Crazy low? (or even crazy horse?)

$1400 sounds about right, but when you compare that cost to other top end cockers.........
Smart Parts US list price for an Evolution is $1350

In the UK a new Evo X with Race grip is around £1350 (translated to US dollars = around $2000)

I'm personally thinking it's a bargain, and have started wondering if I actually need to eat next academic year, or can I spend my food budget on a halfie :D)
It seemed crazy high. So the halfie would already have internals? I just could not figure paying that much for what essentially seems like just a body upgrade. A KAPP flaming body with the frame(unanondized) is about $600.
 

Flash-Bugout

doin' other stuffs
Jul 6, 2001
1,282
0
61
need to get hold of Tank for an exit
It's not just the body upgrade dude, it's the whole marker (less barrel - everyone changes them anyways, front reg, same again, air system and hopper - peeps already have those 2, and if they don't they all have individual tastes :) )

Amazing how far away from the original post you can stray, and still be "on-topic" accoring to the thread title isn't it :D
 

TOPOR

RaceGun Powaaaa!
Apr 11, 2002
182
0
26
Nice
Ok, I'm the lucky owner of a cocker half block direct feed. I precise cocker because they also exist in mini cocker size ;)
Mine is silver clear anodized with some chrome parts.
The concept of the halfie sits in the lack of cocking block and cocking rod.:eek: The back block is a kind of tray which is moving on the top of the gun body without never reaching the back of the gun. Of course there is a smart trick to cock back the hammer! :p

This allow a diminished mass to move for the quick ram and reduced internal friction. The weight is also reduced due to the "angel" size delrin bolt which is supa light, and not dragging inside!

When you know you also benefit from the best pneumatics in chrome from Palmer at the front, you know you can achieve the highest ROF with this set up. These pneumatics sits on the integrated E-block from RaceGun. This custom front block hides very nicely the new smaller five ways valve. I put clear hosing. And now I have on the side of the E-block our new RaceGun jewel sticker which look awesome. (this is biased comment as I made them! :D )

As high ROF is useless if you know you're gonna chop paint, the RaceGun computer grip support the ACE (Anti chop eyeS ). I put an S after eye as it uses 2 eyes. When the ball cut this barrier of light it allows to fire. No matter what is the colour of the ball or the colour of the bolt (unlike Sandridge that require a white bolt only :rolleyes: ).
This is because our ACE is not working on the reflexivity cheap concept. We went for the best solution. The timmy is using the same concept by the way.

The inside of the body of my HB has been drilled and enlarged to be able to work at a lower pressure (I run my gun at 180 psi from my LP maxflow). The mini HB has been drilled also to have the same air volume inside as if they were standard 2001 cockers!

The valve is a high flow valve and the hole in the body which let the air flow into the bolt has been enlarged too in order to get a perfect match between the valve and the body hole. This sounds obvious but how many people buy after market valve for their cocker without enlarging that hole??? :confused: :confused:

This how you get your halfie. I added a grey anodised Voodoo fore grip, a grey anodized LP max flow connected by LP Macro line. (I needed to use LP Macro line from Diablo, the one they use for Matrix because at 180psi, standard Macro line doesn't seal!).

I usually use boomsticks in 12 inches (686, 688,690) and I also have a freak deluxe kit with stainless back and black AA front in 14 inches.

My loader is a black X board revy and I intend to have the Loader control from RaceGun installed on it.... If I tell you what that one is I'll have to kill ya!

Otherwise, I'd like to try a Clear Halo Belt drive as soon as I can have that opportunity.

The set up of the grip is achieved easily through a Palm or a Laptop. Well, if you have any question just ask!

:eek: sorry If you fell asleep... bahhh, you'll get use to me!
 

TOPOR

RaceGun Powaaaa!
Apr 11, 2002
182
0
26
Nice
I also forget to say I've tested inside different heavier hammer with lighter springing (stainless steel , tungsten carbide). At the moment I'm testing a heavy bronze hammer which is self lubricating but quite tender.

I also forget to say that the diminished moving mass on the top and the low pressure leads to no recoil and no vibration at all.

No ball breakage, and YES it keeps the same accuracy of a cocker.

To answer more precisely to Inferno, yep they re hand made prototype and it's not really a matter of money but more the luck to be able to get one from Danmark I think !
 

sc0tty

WALKER LIKES YOUNG BOYS
Aug 27, 2001
60
0
0
Manchester
Race gun

My advice is dont Bother Go over to the Planet Eclipse stand and ask about the wounderful new ivention they have its called the E-Bade and believe me u wont be Let down.

Ive seen the video of the race gun over the net and I thought it was a spyder shutter (lol)

Ive also shot the E-Blade with its magic eye capabilities and it is wicked! & @ rounderbout the same price or cheaper u cant go wrong
 

Cube

M2Q'd eblade or the LV1...decisions, decisions
May 4, 2002
920
99
63
Warrington
Originally posted by soopaman luva
right i aint knocking the eclipse products ,but the race has been out longer and i guess they would have ironed out the bugs by now, so y bother with the eblade? i mean its unproven still in prototype form ??? i think :rolleyes:
Because it's £300 or more cheaper with the ACE, has a better ACE connection, (covered with brass rather than unfixed wire and epoxy), is made by a company famous for testing rather than releasing and testing on the fly and it is seriously cool.

Honestly I was saving up for the race, but the heavy price and the ever increasing (seemingly) price put me off. I get almost the same electro trigger with similar tech for considerably less (especially including fitting and import tax to the UK).

I've played with the prototype and if it gets better in production it's a real gem.

Fitting the race with the ACE is like buying a second Impulse vision. Sorry Race but that put me off, warp feed or not!

Besides the trigger technology on the E-Blade is considerably in advance of the Races latest leaf switch itteration.

For me the only things that let the E-Blade "down" are non-standard grips, (BL Timmy???) and no Warp Feed support included.

But that's just me.
 

Philip

Whip it out..
Mar 24, 2002
3,040
12
63
Ellesmere Port
I should get my hands on one of these and add a warp interface along with a reed switch....i mean screw leaf switches....they are out of date now....reed all the way!!

I would also go with the racegrip because they have the experiance of e-cockers (no offence planet) and know what they are doing.

Just out of curiosity, any planet staff can answer this....but was the e-blade made up for you completely....or did you guys design everything, because if its just getting another comapny to make it for you then manuafacture it makes me think that you will not be able to give full technical support.