bottle swap
- Thread starter 2scoops
- Start date
I wouldn't try and do anything yourself 
Probably best off letting them try to remove the bottle, maybe they have some tool or teqnique to remove it that reduces the chances of damaging it just a thought.
Dave
Probably best off letting them try to remove the bottle, maybe they have some tool or teqnique to remove it that reduces the chances of damaging it just a thought.Dave
I'm sure it also depends on the person who is testing it. Some people will be more strict than others when it comes to the inspection and so forth. Of course there is a chance that it will fail if the threads are damaged, but if that was a risk I doubt the maufacturer would do it so it was probably done by a previous owner (if you bought it used). I suppose that is a risk that you run with buying your things (especially something as crucial as an air system) used.
Okay, most of the common tanks- I can't speak for older Brit systems- have a 5/8"-18 neck, and yes, this includes the Angel Air.
Some Nitro-Duck systems, though not all, and I think only a few of a certain series of tanks, were a larger 3/4"-16 thread.
All CO2 tanks we're familiar with- again, with a very rare few exceptions- will be the same 5/8"-18 thread: those screw-in Max Flow tanks can therefore take the standard 1/2"-NPS righthand thread CO2 valves, or the Max's lefty-thread HPA valve, interchangeably.
So basically chances are very good you can swap regs with no problems.
And, the others are right- don't bother with LocTite or thread sealant. A small drop tends to be useful on non-regged CO2 tanks, but it's usually wholly unnecessary for HPA tanks.
However, the reg/valve needs to be properly torqued to the tank, whether HPA or CO2- as I recall this figure is 35 ft-lb, but I'm going by faulty memory. I suggest you contact your local hydrotester for the details. Sorry, I don't know the equivalent in Newton-kilograms, or joules-per-deciliter.
But suffice to say proper torquing is as important as LocTite is in other applications, especially in screw-in HPA regs.
Doc.
Some Nitro-Duck systems, though not all, and I think only a few of a certain series of tanks, were a larger 3/4"-16 thread.
All CO2 tanks we're familiar with- again, with a very rare few exceptions- will be the same 5/8"-18 thread: those screw-in Max Flow tanks can therefore take the standard 1/2"-NPS righthand thread CO2 valves, or the Max's lefty-thread HPA valve, interchangeably.
So basically chances are very good you can swap regs with no problems.
And, the others are right- don't bother with LocTite or thread sealant. A small drop tends to be useful on non-regged CO2 tanks, but it's usually wholly unnecessary for HPA tanks.
However, the reg/valve needs to be properly torqued to the tank, whether HPA or CO2- as I recall this figure is 35 ft-lb, but I'm going by faulty memory. I suggest you contact your local hydrotester for the details. Sorry, I don't know the equivalent in Newton-kilograms, or joules-per-deciliter.
But suffice to say proper torquing is as important as LocTite is in other applications, especially in screw-in HPA regs.
Doc.