A thought expirement: "Sleeper Cocker"

[jahlad]

what you thinking for the front end...hide it all with the shroud or make it look stock without?

bolt wise anyting with a black rear end with the new style pin striped out and use a stock push pin would work

ill look see if i have any hardline fittings or if i can get some.....shouldnt be impossible

 

[MrPink]

Surely for 'Old School' Bolt looks, you need a bolt pin with a split pin or split ring holding it in? I seem to remember them from way back.

 

[jahlad]

yeah the origonal ones had a pin with a hole in and a keyring type split ring went throu the hole but they stopped using them because the rings got trapped between the body and the cocking block...they were replaced with push pins. the sort where you press the middle of the pin in before the ball bearings holding it disengage. they were stock by 95 (i got one with my 95 minicocker)
will try to post photos later (gotta pinch my dads camera tho)

 

[NulodPBall]

For the hardline there are a couple of people, but Doc Nickel would probably take great joy in helping you out, tinkerer that he is. Just don't count on gettin it back anytime soon. I haven't logged onto his website in a while, but he has reorganized for better efficiency.

For the bolt pin, yes it was the cheap industrial looking thin with a loop on the end...I still have one or two in my junk box but you'll probably be better off cruising your hardware store. In Home Depot they're usually in the bin with all the little drawers, where all the specialty items are. Cruise more than one Home Depot, selection varies from store to store usually. I'd recommend replacing the loop/ring with one small enough that it won't get trapped between the backblock and the body. I ended up flattening the ring. For that really "sleeper" look you could use a rubber band/bailing wire/solder on the main body of the pin to prevent it from sliding over far enough for the ring to get trapped inbetween the backblock and the body as the backblock returns forward.

I also like the idea of the reg hidden inside a 3 or 4 oz bottle. I think if you used a short metal fitting (a tube that's threaded on both ends) and pass it straight through a hole in the side of the bottle (make the hole very snug fitting to heighten the illusion that the fitting is screwed into the bottle). The fitting is readily available at any hardware or autoparts store. Also, if you cut off the bottom carefully enough, you might be able to re-attach it so it's not that noticeable (a few stickers and a little polishing can go a long way) and I think that if you just drill an access hole in the bottom or the side of the bottle (whichever way you adjust your velocity) and then either use a piece of black plastic as a flap, or a sticker that's only attached on one side. That way you don't have to use a bottle cover.

If you take an old, stock bolt and bore out the inlet hole and possibly bevel the part facing the ball if it isn't already beveled it should actually work pretty well. Just don't nick the notch that the O-rings sit in.

Ray

 

[Richard Kirke (DUPS Rocket) UK]

Some internal suggestions

If you're going to ignore the possibilities of electros (I'll come on to that...) then go with a nellspot rex-dialer, Ball-race sear, and a nice triger plate with just a hole for the 3-way pin, no give either way.

If you fancy electoing it, then I'm sure that the RACE grip could be modified to use a sliding, rather than a hinge, trigger (remeber you can pay the guys at RACE as much as they want...) and hide everything in a frame that looks the same, hide the on/of under the grips (Smart-Parts wood grips would cover it up.

Richard

 

[NulodPBall]

If you can get a single-trigger so that it looks closer to stock, heck, black electrical tape can cover whatever you want...

Ray
PS Whoops I just re-read your post...sorry

 

[Richard Kirke (DUPS Rocket) UK]

A good point

but with a bit of work it could be inspection proof too. Heck give it short trigger pull with room afterward (i.e the gun fires at a couple of mm but the actual grip gives it half an inch of leeway, even if they tried the trigger, noone would ever guess it was raced. Am I being too devious?

Richard

 

[jahlad]

i been thinking of electro a little too, wouldnt be impossible to mount everything needed into a stock grip, wouldnt be easy tho.

gonna have a look around at regs and see how small i can get one! need one that screws into an asa and has its exit port high on the side, would make it easier to hide in a bottle....or one that would fit completely in a bottle maybe.....althought...mmm just thought of something but its gonna need a little help from someone with access to a cnc type lathe i think....tyger: how about a custom made reg that will fit into a 3.5 bottle with the top half of the reg looking like an expantion valve and the bottle screwing on to it.....could then actually use the bottle as an expantion to! with the reg sat in the neck of the bottle...wouldnt need to connect an input to the reg as it would be under pressure inside the bottle....just set it with a fixed output

i know this would be hard to do but its possible with the right equipment surely? would look the dogs bits if it worked!

or have i gone mad?
hehe i actually thought about selling my new cocker and doing this sort of thing with my old one before!

 

[Tyger]

I know that Palmer's regs can have a side tap on them, it's pretty cool actually.

I'm not sure about the race frames, I don' tknow if it can be made to look "Stock" still. I've never seen a Race frame, except for a few 'net pics.

I also like Richard's idea of makign it inspection proof too. hee hee! Now THAT would make minds boggle!

Oh, and I've got a good way to get hardline, back to Palmer's. They'll do it. Actually, becasue of this thread I'm going to get my '95 to them to put a hardline on it, again. I used to have hardline on it, then had to go to a flexi hose (I didn't want to...), but for $40, I can get hardline back on the old girl.

I like my hardline.

-Tyger

 

[Mark]

A good point

Originally posted by Richard Kirke (DUPS Rocket) UK
but with a bit of work it could be inspection proof too. Heck give it short trigger pull with room afterward (i.e the gun fires at a couple of mm but the actual grip gives it half an inch of leeway, even if they tried the trigger, noone would ever guess it was raced. Am I being too devious?

Richard

You are being a little too devious...you would lose the 3 way rod with any kind of electro trigger however you modified it, unless you just put a switch behind the trigger (normal looking trigger !!!) and rerouted the wiring to go to the electro 3 way...
I think you should stay with a normal trigger..ok the electro's are the latest thing but until they came out every one was raving about the hinge triggers...they still rip...a single hinge trigger would work.
As another thought with the 3.5 bottle why not cut the bottles bottom off and then thread it like a bigger version of an anti tamper cover to access and adjust the reg contained within...I know we are really getting into some heavy machining now but the satisfaction of knowing what was under the "hood" will more than compensate