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1st car ?

no-infernomark

I think therefore I am.
Sep 19, 2005
1,529
53
83
38
Kettering
although im no mechanic by a long shot, and all this work was done by certfied garages/mechanics/specialists. cam would slightly increase the power band where it used to stop pulling at bout 6500rpm it then went to 7500rpm which does help on the 1/4, that little extra go, with an increase in hp ranging around 10-22bhp(depending on if the fuel air mixture.
why would i want hot air going into my car? with cold air going into the engine the compression rate with in the engine increases, hence more hp? yes i accept the difference is not to noticeable, but its there and all adds up. the air intake on a 106 xsi 1.4i is at the top of the engine near where the bulk head is and sits snuggly to the right of the engine so any warm air is going that way anyway but like i said, dont like warm air.

yes magnex and mongoose are very good exhaust systems, i have and will recommend janspeed to smaller engine cars. my bro had a mk1 escort rs turbo with full mongoose exhaust system. suited and you gain more for that type of power output. i personnelly am in love with omp exhausts. had a group n rally exhaust system on my old 306 xsi. lovely sound with huge amounts of torque and power delievered from it.

the whole idea of tunin these small cars is simple if u stick to this, u want as much cold compressed dense air going into the engine as possible and u want as rid of the spent gasses as quickly as possible


racing manifold-as in statement above cold compressed dense air in as quick as possible and spent gasses gone asquick as possible. think like this, you have 4 ports where you can blow said spent gasses through but with in 1 inch they all join so limits what can go in them small pipes. you have 4 longer pipes then going into 2 pipes then into one no only have you increased the air flow you also decrease the time to get the exhaust system where that can do its job. no need for the block to be touched

super chip-ok this was a bit much at the time, but did increase the output by 10-14hp give or take, not going to increase as much as say a 306 gti-6 or something with much bigger engine. it does slightly increase the effieicny of the engine with an increase in performance, so win win really.

driveshaft-again interesting comment but really i was 17/18 did i give a rat's ass?

from a 100bhp stock 106 xsi to a 130+bhp car which almost the same bhp of my old 306 xsi which was 137 as standard, in a car that weighs about as much as one of my turds, not really many issues. beat most cars off the line and to the end aswell, do really miss that car!!!:(
 

Skeet

Platinum Member
Why not? ;):rolleyes:

(You don't have to actually tell me why not...really, you don't...please!!)
Racing manifolds are usually covered in insulating material, like asbestos tape, for want of a better description, which retains the heat...hot manifold is good, to a point. Also, they are usually constructed from larger individual tubing, which is also good...too a point.
Normally, the manifold, would be matched to the head, so that the exhaust ports of the head, flow smoothly into the manifold, so reducing obstruction, meaning exhaust gases get out quicker...if waste can get out quicker, more air can get in quicker, which can be burnt quicker, meaning better performance.

Janspeed are not good exhausts for the general population...Magnex and Mongoose make very good exhaust systems...depending on the car...if it were a Peugot I would speak to Ecosse and see what they say, but many companies have an agenda...

Normal car engines, have the cam profiles set, for optimum duration and lift for that engine....so, bunging "performance cams" in an engine, simply moves the power band to a more exciting place...but it is swings and roundabouts...especially on a low power engine...so it may accelerate quicker, lower in the rev range, but you will lose top end power. You cant change one thing and expect wonders, unless it is nitrous oxide.

When most people fit an induction kit, they take out the air box, which is sealed and has a pipe coming from low down at the front of the car, for sucking in cold dense air...bin the lot and just fit the obligatory KnN cone filter, straight onto the end of the pipe where the box came off, just before the Air Mass sensor. The result, is a very roarty, sporty note from under the bonnet...good thing...however..now...the filter sucks in air from directly under the bonnet...which, after 10 mins..is very hot and not very dense, which means a loss of power...even if they fit a large duct from the front of the car, firing towards the cone...it still sucks in loads of hot air. More expensive types, like the Viper which is about £250...has a shield all around the cone filter and a ridge to connect the c0old air ducting too...much better...though, what may work just as well...is to make sure that your car doesn't have an extra box, hidden in the wing or whatever, that reduces induction roar (like Calibras do)...if it does, remove it and provide ducting...leave the old air box in and replace it with a KnN or PiperCross Panel filter...also...cant be seen with a random inspection...and will probably provide a power increase along with throttle response, whereas the first option will cause a loss in power, but will sound like it has improved it...easy mistake. But sorting breathing, is the first step to power, which includes the exhaust, carefully chosen...take car when considering CAT replacement pipes...the engine was built with the back pressure it creates, in mind...also...it wont pass the MOT...unless you do lots of other work..and then its luck.

The fool hardy, often think that the popular, StarChip and SuperChip will sort their car out and give it 20 BHP extra...not likely. Turbo charged cars do get much higher gains from these off the shelf chips, over normally aspirated cars...but...they are designed, similar to the CAMS, to provide altered parameters, higher fueling, longer ignition pulse, advanced timg etc, that will work in all cars, that teh chip is designed for...like a suit from Burtons, yes it will fit...but will it fit properly an hide my massive dong? Not likely...coz my dong is bigger than many other peoples...not an average dong...so...to get around this...you can have a complete stand alone management system, or...more cost effective...a piggy back, like the UNichip...now...this can be fitted and then TUNED to YOUR car...and even better...if you then change something else...it can be re tweaked on a rolling road, to make best use of that upgrade you fitted.
A good addition to a chip, is an adjustable fuel pressure regulator...a common one is the FSE "Power Boost Valve"...but Webber do one too...they also do Throttle bodies, which look like 40 DCOE carbs, but are you fit your fuel injectors into them and they have a butterfly, for each cylinder, rather than the one for all 4/6, that you get on normal cars...they cost about £1200 and will give about 20-30BHP...that's how much power costs.

Lowering a car, makes it look nice and lowers the centre of gravity, which CAN improve handling...but...if you lower it too much, you drastically alter the geometry of the suspension, create extreme camber, which can mean that the walls of the tyres are touching the road on the inside of the tyres...very bad and you also lose traction. The absolute worst thing you can do, is chop down the standard springs...also, lowering the back too much or front etc, can alter the brake bias valve, which is set to operate with the car in a certain stance...change that, and you can find your braked locking up on you at inopportune moments. By all measn, lower the car a touch, but handling comes from a stiffer car...so...uprate the dampers (shocks) instead, fit Poly Bushes, and possibly front and rear strut braces, that connect the tops of the suspension mounts and stiffen the chassis...they also look cool.

My top tips:

1) Brakes...first thing to do, is uprate your brakes...NOT RACING PADS...with after market fast road pads..EBC Green Stuff are good, better...increased disc size...drilled discs, not slotted. Better still, improved calipers for greater and more even clamping force.
If your car stops quicker, you can brake later, which means your faster...also, higher boiling point brake fluid, DOT 6 etc, will help prevent brake fade, which is damn scary.

2) Sensible Induction kit/modifications and quality exhaust system...not one that sounds loud ALL THE TIME...purr on tickover...rumble on the trot...roars when you gallop.

3) GOOD TYRES...not just black and round...but with tread on...always keep the same tread patter on both sides of the front of the car...correct pressure is also important.

4) Rolling road tune up...


Thas why...:D
 

Skeet

Platinum Member
although im no mechanic by a long shot, and all this work was done by certfied garages/mechanics/specialists. cam would slightly increase the power band where it used to stop pulling at bout 6500rpm it then went to 7500rpm which does help on the 1/4, that little extra go, with an increase in hp ranging around 10-22bhp(depending on if the fuel air mixture.8-15BHP at very best I would think

why would i want hot air going into my car?
Some stock airboxes have a bimetal switch, which allows warm air from the engine bay into the airflow, to improve starting on cold days

with cold air going into the engine the compression rate with in the engine increases, hence more hp?

I know. Reason for warm air explained above, and that I know, explained in longer post as requested by individual:D However, it has nothing to do with the compression ratio...this is defined by the cylinder size, stroke and piston crown shape...cold air, is denser yes, because it is denser, there is more oxygen by volume, which allows more fuel to be mixed, which is where the power comes from

yes i accept the difference is not to noticeable, but its there and all adds up. the air intake on a 106 xsi 1.4i is at the top of the engine near where the bulk head is and sits snuggly to the right of the engine so any warm air is going that way anyway but like i said, dont like warm air.

If the air filter, is exposed in the engine bay, they it will draw in warm air, unlike using the stock air box, as explained in long post. You can get a forced induction kit for the Saxo/106 which is an enclosed air box, mounted near the grill and directs cold air straight into the air filter

yes magnex and mongoose are very good exhaust systems, i have and will recommend janspeed to smaller engine cars. my bro had a mk1 escort rs turbo with full mongoose exhaust system. suited and you gain more for that type of power output. i personnelly am in love with omp exhausts. had a group n rally exhaust system on my old 306 xsi. lovely sound with huge amounts of torque and power delievered from it.

OMP are very good...as are Ashley, Mild Steel ones...

the whole idea of tunin these small cars is simple if u stick to this, u want as much cold compressed dense air going into the engine as possible and u want as rid of the spent gasses as quickly as possible


racing manifold-as in statement above cold compressed dense air in as quick as possible and spent gasses gone asquick as possible. think like this, you have 4 ports where you can blow said spent gasses through but with in 1 inch they all join so limits what can go in them small pipes. you have 4 longer pipes then going into 2 pipes then into one no only have you increased the air flow you also decrease the time to get the exhaust system where that can do its job. no need for the block to be touched

Yup, apart from the last bit...if your exhaust outlets from the block, do not match the manifold, then you are not making the most of the potential gas flow...worst case scenario is where the manifold ports are smaller than those on the block as this will create unwanted turbulence and restrict gas flow

super chip-ok this was a bit much at the time, but did increase the output by 10-14hp give or take, not going to increase as much as say a 306 gti-6 or something with much bigger engine. it does slightly increase the effieicny of the engine with an increase in performance, so win win really.

Hmmmm...possible, but not normally unless all things are tweaked to match

driveshaft-again interesting comment but really i was 17/18 did i give a rat's ass?

if you were sitting there, typing that in a wheelchair, because you popped a drive shaft needlessly...would you give a rats ass then? Do these kids not need to know these things?

from a 100bhp stock 106 xsi to a 130+bhp car which almost the same bhp of my old 306 xsi which was 137 as standard, in a car that weighs about as much as one of my turds, not really many issues. beat most cars off the line and to the end aswell, do really miss that car!!!:(

Yup...have to admit, the little XSI does respond well to careful tuning...it was in fact, a 205 GTI that made me tune my Calibra![/b]
:D:D:D
 

Carlos.

Something funny
May 12, 2007
294
0
0
North West UK
All this info's useless if you haven't got a stereo that goes "oumph oumph oumph oumph" - repeat to fade

Seriously though did anyone listen to jeremy vine on radio 2 today? (i know, i'm old, and / or sad!)
anyway they were talking about young drivers and how they sadly keep dying horribly in car accidents, while often unfortunately taking their friends with them. Anyway it looks like strict new laws and limits may be on the horizon, so enjoy it while it lasts kids!

Carlos..
 

Ahdinko

Team Apocalypse.
Jun 12, 2006
795
24
43
Stevenage, Hertfordshire
Vauxhall Corsa
Depsite being the "chav" car, it is THE cheapest to insure.
Getting my first car next week.
Best quotes ive gotten for:

Fiesta 1.25L - £1046
Peugoet 106 1L - £920
Corsa 1.2L - £788

(All are '99 models)

I don't know who you are going for Insurance with, but Direct Line have given me the best quotes. Churchill wanted £5000 off of me for the fiesta, AIG wanted £2500.
Best price Tesco and confused could find was around £3000
 

fordy31uk

New Member
Mar 26, 2007
122
0
0
Suffolk!
confused is a rip off for car insurance, they have deals with certain providers... go to moneysupermarket.com its ace, its what i use every time..

my first car was a 1.6sri almera which stung me heavily on insurance....then an mg zs 180...which again stung me...and now i have a honda civic 1.7 cdti which isnt to bad lol...

as a few people have already said....just get something cheap and chearful to insure and run...

good luck and happy hunting! lol

fordy