cowface: possibly, possibly not - the way to spot a rex-dialler kit is firstly a hole through the back block, just to the left of where the cocking rod goes through. If this hole isn't there, then pull the back-block back and look at the round lump of metal that the cocking rod goes through (this lump blocks the bottom tube in the body if that makes sense). If there is a little "thing" to the left of where the cocking rod goes through, which looks like it takes an allen key, then you have a rex-kit, and the velocity adjustment is as I said earlier - if not, then you have a standard dialler, and you need to take out the cocking rod, put a large key in that hole and turn clockwise to dial up.
That probably would have been explained easier by saying do you have a fat or thin dialling key
Smart: as for setting the pressure, there is a trick to find your cockers optimum input pressure I have just re-discovered.
Dial the velocity adjuster all the way out (in your case fully clockwise).
Turn the pressure on the LP reg right down (probably safe to start at about 180ish), then, in small steps (this is loads of hassle with a WGP reg, and you're about to see why)
turn the pressure up until the velocity starts to come down again*
you want the input pressure which gives the highest velocity.
Hopefully this is within 30ish fps of 300, or you need to change springs (a heavier main spring I believe).
Once you have your best velocity set using the pressure, fine tune it with your rex-kit, and you should be rocking.
*The theory behind this is that once the pressure inside the valve gets to a certain level, your springs/hammer combination do not have enough push to open the valve far enough/for long enough to allow enough gas out.