Underboring with fragile paint

[Orion3]

When I finally pick up my Shaft 4 set I'll give it a go. Normally shoot with DS tourney paint too so it'll be interesting.
With robust paint I've not noticed a difference with barrel breaks when under/overboring but tourney grade paint will be the real test.
Looks like your test wasn't a success, I'll let you know how I get on next weekend (planet eclipse allowing!!)

 

[cowface]

well, i shoot dark sports training paint down at bricket wood on .689 and its perfect , but the other week on tournament paint it was terrible

 

[k4p84]

With robust paint I've not noticed a difference with barrel breaks when under/overboring

The hint is in your description... if you use hard paint it is obviously less likely to break in your barrel... it is also less likely to break on your target.

Tourney paint is inherently more fragile and you can expect the odd break regardless, even overboring, due to the air hitting the ball or in some markers due to the design of the breach, see Planets bolt experiments.

To limit breaks treat your paint well and do not overly chill, heat or expose to the elements. use a paint that drop tests at 3-4 out of 10 from 6 feet. Use a good marker, basic blowbacks, spyder, timmpman etc are never going to be soft on paint even after wasting money on upgrades.
For best results get a DM / NT / TM7 / TM15 / A1 / AR:K marker. for best results get a level 7 mag

Ed

 

[Orion3]

The hint is in your description... if you use hard paint it is obviously less likely to break in your barrel... it is also less likely to break on your target.

Tourney paint is inherently more fragile and you can expect the odd break regardless, even overboring,
Ed

Understand this - the crux of my question is....

Physics suggests that neither overboring or slight underboring will break any more paint. Overboring because the paint isn't contacting the barrel or underboring because the contact is uniform and so therefore is the pressure exerted on the sphere (equal all around).

However....tournament paint IS more brittle and my question is - Is UK tournament paint gernerally so brittle that the act of compressing the paint will cause the structure to fracture inside the barrel; moreso than in the case of overboring where paint can potenetially bounce inside the barrel?

Tests out of the US suggest that there is no real difference when underboring/overboring training OR tournament paint. However, US paint is one thing and UK paint is often something quite different - Hence my question.

The stuff I've watched/read about suggests that underboring to a max of 0.004 will only yield benefits interms of efficiency, consistancy and accuracy whilst breakages remain the same. However, to date I've only read/watched; I have tried training paint (and concur with the US findings) but as yet I've not tried with tournament grade paint...and can't do until I get my new barrel set!

 

[Liam92]

well in the instance above if my memory serves me well the paint was boring out at .682, and i underbored to .679 so thats a difference of .003 which seemed to work pretty well. rps premium is a moderately brittle paint (pretty brittle by field paint standards, but not next to the highest end tournament paints). regardless of whether it's UK or US paint, the same principle applies.

 

[k4p84]

Hey

Having never shot paint in the US I can not comment, from all I have heard the manufacturers look after it better than over hear, climate controlled containers etc.

Generally UK players do not prep the paint as well as US players will. Getting a slightly to fragile ball and airing it to get it just right etc. Selecting the best paint available for the game, morning vs afternoon, will the paint warm or chill prior to your game as you have taken if away from the container, different hopper paint for laners at the start of the game, etc.

Unless you are at a Millenium you will not get the option of having paint fresh from the pallet to chose from. You will be getting stuff that has been sitting on site or been home delivered and kept indoors at room temp then packed in the car overnight etc.

Ring Kee / sterling and get the most fragile paint that they have and try your underboring out.

After 10 years of playing tournies I have shot 100's of thousands of balls of all different brands from hellfire to egg shaped balls. I have used many of the popular markers and had many different barrel kits.

What I and most of the players that have been playing that long have concluded is that matching paint to barrel will give you a better chrono consistency, a tiny air efficiency saving and not a lot to do with accuracy.

Having the most consistent shape and fill characteristics in a ball will give you unsurprisingly the most consistent shot. If the marker is behaving you should be as close as you will get to ball on ball fps equality.

If you want to increase accuracy just put a longer tube with lots of porting on. It will guide even the crappiest of paint to a better grouping. With good paint you will see not real accuracy increase between barrel length from something like 6-8 inches up.

A longer tube before the porting starts will also give you increased air efficiency as more air is used to push the ball rather than just escaping out the porting during the guiding section of the barrel.

In theory having 'a perfect sphere' make a good seal in the barrel will give you the best efficiency due to less air escaping past the ball before the porting starts. That is simple physics, the issue is that the physics acting on a paintball are going to be different.

They are not perfect spheres.
They have seams running down them, a natural week spot.
Depending on how the seam lands in the breach with very fragile paint determines where the main impact the air blast will be.
How fast the ball is accelerated by the bolt and air pocket is a factor that varies from marker to marker.
At what point in the cylce is the ball shot, open vs closed bolt markers.
The ball distorts as the air propels it, again see the Planet videos. Can the seam where the two parts of the ball joined take the force. Will the drag of a too tight barrel cause the rear face of the ball to implode, etc
Plus more things that I can't think of atm.....

If you are trying to shoot the most fragile paint possible to break at distance on a soft target, aka your opposition's ass as he dives into the snake, then you want to minimise all possibilities of the paint breaking in your hopper, breach or barrel.

Only use the most fragile paint for break out laning, it just can't take running and diving.
Only use paint that you have test shot through the marker and you are happy that it is robust enough to be cycled through.
Use a barrel that will not cause breaking.

Having standard slightly greasy paint vs dry balls was an argument a few years ago.
Barrel kits.
Stepped bores.
Length of barrel.
Barrel material, carbon fibre does not chill as much as alli during sustained shooting.
Air vs CO2

Little american kids have come up with theories on everything they can think of.

At the end of the day if you want to try these out knock yourself out. I'll be at the other end of the field with my one barrel bore and whatever paint I am shooting at 280 - 300 fps and I will still shoot you

Ed