BUT,
Back to the subject at hand...
Trigger jobs on a 98 are NOT hard at all. Do you have a 98 Custom, or an old 98? If it's a custom, trigger work will be easier.
Break the marker in half, and look at the trigger assembly. Notice that the trigger is held in place by two pins. If you put something on the back pin (the pin closest to the rear of the trigger), say, masking tape, or if you cut a straw to fit in there (cut down the length of the straw, then cut it to fit in the hole in the trigger) it will signifigantly reduce your pull (that's the pin that the trigger pivots on to fire, and by reducing the space between the pin and the trigger, it can take as much as half the pull out). Next, get a new trigger spring. If you have a 98 custom, a light spring from a click pen, cut to fit, should work fine. This will reduce the amount of force with which you have to pull the trigger. Next, a new sear spring. Buy some utility springs from any hardware store (this spring will have to be stronger than the trigger spring), find one that's lighter than the one currently in there, and use it. Polish the sear and hammer, this will signifigantly smooth the action. Take all the internals out of the marker, find any rough spots on the inside of the body, take some high grit (Oh, say, 1500?) sand paper, and sand them down. Now, polish the parts that you sanded (and even the parts you didn't) and that will also help smooth the action. I've done that exact job on my ProCarbine (I even cut a double trigger for it, out of raw steel
it's amazing what a dremel and some spare time can do for you) and my old M98 and their trigger pulls are comparable to the pull on my autococker (which also has MASSIVE trigger work, all done by me of course ) Do you live in the US? If so, I'd do the work for you for free if you pay for shipping.
Back to the subject at hand...
Trigger jobs on a 98 are NOT hard at all. Do you have a 98 Custom, or an old 98? If it's a custom, trigger work will be easier.
Break the marker in half, and look at the trigger assembly. Notice that the trigger is held in place by two pins. If you put something on the back pin (the pin closest to the rear of the trigger), say, masking tape, or if you cut a straw to fit in there (cut down the length of the straw, then cut it to fit in the hole in the trigger) it will signifigantly reduce your pull (that's the pin that the trigger pivots on to fire, and by reducing the space between the pin and the trigger, it can take as much as half the pull out). Next, get a new trigger spring. If you have a 98 custom, a light spring from a click pen, cut to fit, should work fine. This will reduce the amount of force with which you have to pull the trigger. Next, a new sear spring. Buy some utility springs from any hardware store (this spring will have to be stronger than the trigger spring), find one that's lighter than the one currently in there, and use it. Polish the sear and hammer, this will signifigantly smooth the action. Take all the internals out of the marker, find any rough spots on the inside of the body, take some high grit (Oh, say, 1500?) sand paper, and sand them down. Now, polish the parts that you sanded (and even the parts you didn't) and that will also help smooth the action. I've done that exact job on my ProCarbine (I even cut a double trigger for it, out of raw steel
it's amazing what a dremel and some spare time can do for you) and my old M98 and their trigger pulls are comparable to the pull on my autococker (which also has MASSIVE trigger work, all done by me of course ) Do you live in the US? If so, I'd do the work for you for free if you pay for shipping.
