Timing for E1 Orracle
- Thread starter U9Ly_KwaN
- Start date
Ok will proceed with all d rest of the timing procedures then 
I really hope that the inline reg is sweet-spotted already
I really hope that the inline reg is sweet-spotted already 
did you turn the eyes off to see if its shooting fine, because with the eyes on and no paint in the breach, the gun cocks and shoots at a slow rate.
Mike!!! Why oh why did u have to show up out of nowhere & get into ppl's business??!! This is the 2nd time u did this to me & saved my a** !! (1st time u helped me swapped bottle cover ) My cocker rips now!
Thanx Mike! & Skeetmaster too! That web is very very helpful!
Its kinda weird though.. I tot bout this the 1st time I got it & I did try turning the eye off wen I first got it but it didnt work before... But somehow it works now??
Anyway, jus 1 problem now... Wen I use the settings below for 22.222 bps (got this setting from other forum):
SON 003
CDEL 003
CON 024
CTO 255
COFF 018
d air consumption was not consistent, only few of the shots had perfect 'bang' & d rest was like short-stroking (dunno how to say this correctly really ) Wats d cause of this?
Note: I have 3k psi, 1.1L, HP preset Pure Energy air but remaining air was slightly less than 1000 as shown on the gauge...
The above problem does not occur if I set the TIMG to Factory FAST setting though... But I cud/wanna shoot faster than this
This is the 2nd time u did this to me & saved my a** !! (1st time u helped me swapped bottle cover ) My cocker rips now! Thanx Mike! & Skeetmaster too! That web is very very helpful!
Its kinda weird though.. I tot bout this the 1st time I got it & I did try turning the eye off wen I first got it but it didnt work before... But somehow it works now??
Anyway, jus 1 problem now... Wen I use the settings below for 22.222 bps (got this setting from other forum):
SON 003
CDEL 003
CON 024
CTO 255
COFF 018
d air consumption was not consistent, only few of the shots had perfect 'bang' & d rest was like short-stroking (dunno how to say this correctly really
) Wats d cause of this?Note: I have 3k psi, 1.1L, HP preset Pure Energy air but remaining air was slightly less than 1000 as shown on the gauge...
The above problem does not occur if I set the TIMG to Factory FAST setting though... But I cud/wanna shoot faster than this
Your marker is not up to it...all depends on, if the regs are sweetspotted...cocking mass...Ram...QEV's...get me on MSN matey...
Welcome to the family of autocockers.
I got a mini orracle with an E1 and it straight up rips. (with help from slik blackblock and bolt ....Thanks skeet)
Stick your marker onto factory fast by pressing the red button inside the grip when the grip is powered on, this will take you to your advance settings.
Timing your eblade isnt really much of an issue as if u sit and time it using hte coff, con etc times then then most of the settings are over run when you got your eye on.
When your eye is on the bolt closes when a paintball is detected for example and not when the allocated time expires as what happends when its manaually timed ..say 3ms.
You should only ever need to turn ur eye off if you get paint in it or if ur marker doesnt sound healthy. But factory fast settings with your eye off is fine.
Trust me mate its worth while just ignoring all the timing and setting it on factory fast, making sure your lug height is okay and save up and get a slik kit and mq valve. Sweet spot your regs too.
EDIT: Wow that took me ages to write cause i went and got lunch and came back up and thier was about 5 replies, sorry for repeating stuff.
I got a mini orracle with an E1 and it straight up rips. (with help from slik blackblock and bolt ....Thanks skeet)
Stick your marker onto factory fast by pressing the red button inside the grip when the grip is powered on, this will take you to your advance settings.
Timing your eblade isnt really much of an issue as if u sit and time it using hte coff, con etc times then then most of the settings are over run when you got your eye on.
When your eye is on the bolt closes when a paintball is detected for example and not when the allocated time expires as what happends when its manaually timed ..say 3ms.
You should only ever need to turn ur eye off if you get paint in it or if ur marker doesnt sound healthy. But factory fast settings with your eye off is fine.
Trust me mate its worth while just ignoring all the timing and setting it on factory fast, making sure your lug height is okay and save up and get a slik kit and mq valve. Sweet spot your regs too.
EDIT: Wow that took me ages to write cause i went and got lunch and came back up and thier was about 5 replies, sorry for repeating stuff.
Thanx a lot for d welcome!
I know cockers are very very complicated esp wen it has problems.. somehow I jus love 'em! No prob bout the repeating stuffs, its all good! If I cant get the right settings for faster ROF then obviously I wil jus stick to the Fast Factory setting...
A bit of concern bout adjusting the lug height... mayb I don hav the right size of the allen key, but I jus cant feel that its turning wen I turn it.. felt like d thread is either damaged or allen key used was too small (hope its not damaged
)How much is these slik kit & mq valve? If I cud afford them next pay then perhaps I'd get them... been very very tight already now
Is this mq valve d same as Planet's QEV ?? I jus wonder how much will these improve my cocker & in wat way?*as usual.. got tons of questions & curiosity.. lol!*
Thanx Ryan!
Oh yeah.. Skeet, my MSN is u9ly_kwan@hotmail.com
Cheers guys
If your marker is cocking and firing fine on factory settings leave ur lug along. Its quite a big allen key and make sure your marker is not cocked when u try to screw it.
The Mq valve replaces your hammer spring, hammer, valve, pin, valve spring and cocking rod with a solinoid
So instead of a solinoid tripping ur sear, release the hammer, hammer smacks the pin and that opens the valve. Its just a pure electronic operation of the valve opening. Then you front solinoid will move the bolt only as it doesnt have to recock the marker.
Hence...lighter, faster, less kick and lower cocking pressure.
The slik stuff is just uber light, talk to skeet for prices but its theee shizzle for a cocker.
The Mq valve replaces your hammer spring, hammer, valve, pin, valve spring and cocking rod with a solinoid
So instead of a solinoid tripping ur sear, release the hammer, hammer smacks the pin and that opens the valve. Its just a pure electronic operation of the valve opening. Then you front solinoid will move the bolt only as it doesnt have to recock the marker.
Hence...lighter, faster, less kick and lower cocking pressure.
The slik stuff is just uber light, talk to skeet for prices but its theee shizzle for a cocker.
Originally posted by U9Ly_KwaN
If I cant get the right settings for faster ROF then obviously I wil jus stick to the Fast Factory setting...
Cheers guys
Oh also, you wont get faster than FF with eyes on .....realistically.
How is that stuff bearing up now matey?
Any feedback for me...?
Might have something nice for you in a few days time...
Any feedback for me...?
Might have something nice for you in a few days time...