Cheers Armadyllo, wasn't aware that there's an oring there. Haven't got any spares, are they specific to the max flo or could I find a suitable replacement for the time being?
Max-flo leak from manifold
- Thread starter Jon S
- Start date
Would that be me by any chance. I found that it is near enough impossible to re seal this so i would advise to do what i did, find the strongest loctite you can and seal the bitch and leave it well alone. I dont understand why it has to be honest all the guys from sp say just leave it alone their is no reason to ever take it out.
Good luck mate your going to need it.
Hey guys...
erm as for orings... give smartpartseurope a shout by phone, they are excellent... but if time is an issue... most orings are standard for other stuff... as long as you can match the size then it's worth a try innit?
As for sealing it up completely... makes sense in some ways... BUT remember that the on/off mech is basically a 3cm long, 8mm dia aluminum rod rod that has a small hole drilled right through the 8mm dia which is rotated in side when the lever is turned... the way that hole seals is by a small o ring set into the inside of the barrel(presses against the rod.. and around the 1/2 mm dia hole.. this can only be removed by first removing the on/off mechanism (circlip and push out ) then removing the (leaking)grub screw in question so that you get access to the oring at the back of the open barrel(dental pick to remove it or a bent paper clip). That is the reason for the grub screws existence.. basically my oring wore out (ouch). if it was loctited in i'd a been stuffed.
Hope that clears things up guys
good luck... oh but use green loctite if you do use it.. lol
erm as for orings... give smartpartseurope a shout by phone, they are excellent... but if time is an issue... most orings are standard for other stuff... as long as you can match the size then it's worth a try innit?
As for sealing it up completely... makes sense in some ways... BUT remember that the on/off mech is basically a 3cm long, 8mm dia aluminum rod rod that has a small hole drilled right through the 8mm dia which is rotated in side when the lever is turned... the way that hole seals is by a small o ring set into the inside of the barrel(presses against the rod.. and around the 1/2 mm dia hole.. this can only be removed by first removing the on/off mechanism (circlip and push out ) then removing the (leaking)grub screw in question so that you get access to the oring at the back of the open barrel(dental pick to remove it or a bent paper clip). That is the reason for the grub screws existence.. basically my oring wore out (ouch). if it was loctited in i'd a been stuffed.
Hope that clears things up guys
good luck... oh but use green loctite if you do use it.. lol
Well however it's in place now its damn strong, bending my allen key after several minutes with a lighter and no movement. I might have to wait for after training this weekend and then take the tank off. If I need to heat this sucker up anymore I dont want to damage the tank.
Did you get it second hand? If so then the last owner may have loctited it... mine came out with a decent alankey and an extension tube ..... what ever you do don't be tempted to use penetrating oil, fecks the oring and can get into the air system (VERY VERY VERY NOTTT RECOMMENDED... get deiseling and hheeeeeeuuuuge explosion potentially)
Sounds like it just needs some persuasion. Usually when summat is that tight I apply as much torque with the alankey as I can and hold it for as long as pos... gives the thread time to move (very slowly and loosen.. gotta do it a number of times before it shifts usually tho.)
anyway ...good luck
Sounds like it just needs some persuasion. Usually when summat is that tight I apply as much torque with the alankey as I can and hold it for as long as pos... gives the thread time to move (very slowly and loosen.. gotta do it a number of times before it shifts usually tho.)
anyway ...good luck