Max-flo leak from manifold

[Jon S]

My maxxy seems to be leaking from the screw where there is normally a jewel, on the front of the manifold.

I'm hoping that some strong lok-tite will cure the problem, but want to check before I start messing around with it as its holding the tank pressure.

Will I just need to take it out and re seal it, then?

 

[Skeet]

I have seen a guy have noting but grief from that hole...if its leaking, you will have to take it out, and loctite it in with red loctite, most likely, tho wait and see what someone else says.

 

[L J]

Originally posted by Skeetmaster
I have seen a guy have noting but grief from that hole...if its leaking, you will have to take it out, and loctite it in with red loctite, most likely, tho wait and see what someone else says.

nooooo dont use red loctite, use green, basically the same, except with alot of heat you can remove it. red is basically unbreakable...

 

[Skeet]

isnt that the other way round? I mean, when I have taken apart bits on my Cocker, they have been fixed with a crusty RED substance which I assume is RED loctite...tho I may be wrong..

 

[L J]

well i have blue and green. blue being thread locker for grub screws on triggers etc.
i use green for screws that i never use, and for hamers/rams etc on impys etc cos you shouldnt need to undo them very often.
been told by many people red is the strongest. i have no need for it as green is plenty strong enough and will stop any air leak..

 

[Jon S]

I do have green, so I'll try that out.

 

[L J]

remember to leave it for 12 hours before using it

 

[Jon S]

Dont worry, already learnt that loctite isnt instant the hard way!

 

[Rabies]

I'll second the vote for green loctite over red -- it cures with about the same hardness as red, but seems to soften up a lot more easily with moderate heating (e.g. boiling water is plenty hot enough to soften the loctite on an impulse hammer assembly).

Green is also supposed to be better at sealing ill-fitting threads with larger bonding gaps.

 

[Armadyllo]

Guys... not a good idea either way as it only needs a new O ring. Mine went the other day.

I didn't even realise that it was under the jewel til it leaked. Had a spare in the kit that came with it. I also removed the oring from inside the on/off tumbler that seals the hole in the barrel mechanism as that had been leaking slowly as well from using the on/off too much.

Anyway.. if orings aren't available then loctite the bugga but makes it hard to get out of the thread when you get a new oring...

good luck