You only need a new front.
There are different types as well as lengths of freak front; longer and more porting means quieter gun.
Making a Cocker Quieter
- Thread starter jeevusmaximus
- Start date
There are different types as well as lengths of freak front; longer and more porting means quieter gun.
John(SAD) - Cheers but I knew of the seperate fronts and backs anf inserts but I figure with a 12" I can play anywhere.
Jeevus, if you can find one, they replace the screw, so the front-block is in the same place, but you have the "oooh" factor of an extra pipe in your front-pnuematics!
quiet cockers
fit an after market valve, Such as the super charger from belsales or planet (Utterly reliable easy to setup (I.M.O.)) then get a replacement front reg so that you can set your gun to around the 275 - 300 PSI as opposed to the standard 450 ish,
Also adjust the back block position (by removing cocking rod and bolt then turning it) so that when the back block is forward it is 1-2mm clear of the gun body. This will reduce CLACK noise that every cocker lover loves. But will allow you to hear your team mates when they are trying to inform you about an iminent mugging!
fit an after market valve, Such as the super charger from belsales or planet (Utterly reliable easy to setup (I.M.O.)) then get a replacement front reg so that you can set your gun to around the 275 - 300 PSI as opposed to the standard 450 ish,
Also adjust the back block position (by removing cocking rod and bolt then turning it) so that when the back block is forward it is 1-2mm clear of the gun body. This will reduce CLACK noise that every cocker lover loves. But will allow you to hear your team mates when they are trying to inform you about an iminent mugging!
I was thinking of getting a RAT 3:16 valve and possibly a new pneumatics reg, don't know which one yet.
Does anyone recommend any that can be set by a professional and then left because I really dont want to fiddle with it?
Does anyone recommend any that can be set by a professional and then left because I really dont want to fiddle with it?
The rock is a great front reg. If you don't want to fiddle with it, don't replace the allen screw with a knob. simple as that.
Volumizers should be easy to find. I know mine was.
The this that will do you best for lowering pressure and increasing efficiency (both will make your kit quieter) would be a spring kit and a valve tool. If you want super high flow, get a Rocket valve or a RED valve. Both are super. If the RAT isn't milled well, which has happened to more than a few people, it can and will strip the inside of your cocker ... not fun.
Back to the spring kit and valve tool ... you idealy want teh lightest hammer (main) spring as possible and you should change valve springs as needed to change velocity dramaticly. After each attempt at changing springs you should do what is called Sweat spot your reg. This is were you slowly but surely raise your reg pressure up until your velocity actually starts to go down. you want your pressure to be right at the sopt that if you turned it either way, velocity would go down. This will give you the best efficiency. Now, if you're under say 30 fps of your target (what you'll be playing at, just turn the adjuster in till you get the velocity. if not. Respring and try again.
You can do this with what ever valve you have now, and you should see a substansial improvement in both voise and efficiency. and all for under $30 us.
it just takes time ...
-Micah
Volumizers should be easy to find. I know mine was.
The this that will do you best for lowering pressure and increasing efficiency (both will make your kit quieter) would be a spring kit and a valve tool. If you want super high flow, get a Rocket valve or a RED valve. Both are super. If the RAT isn't milled well, which has happened to more than a few people, it can and will strip the inside of your cocker ... not fun.
Back to the spring kit and valve tool ... you idealy want teh lightest hammer (main) spring as possible and you should change valve springs as needed to change velocity dramaticly. After each attempt at changing springs you should do what is called Sweat spot your reg. This is were you slowly but surely raise your reg pressure up until your velocity actually starts to go down. you want your pressure to be right at the sopt that if you turned it either way, velocity would go down. This will give you the best efficiency. Now, if you're under say 30 fps of your target (what you'll be playing at, just turn the adjuster in till you get the velocity. if not. Respring and try again.
You can do this with what ever valve you have now, and you should see a substansial improvement in both voise and efficiency. and all for under $30 us.
it just takes time ...
-Micah
I was thinking of sending it to Belsalses because I dont know enough about cockers to be confident enough to change any internal parts or the front block.
If I send them my marker and the parts I want put on, will they do it for me?
Also, I have a REX velocity kit. Will this make a difference to finding the efficiency and optimum velocity?
If I send them my marker and the parts I want put on, will they do it for me?
Also, I have a REX velocity kit. Will this make a difference to finding the efficiency and optimum velocity?
I wouldn't send it to them, i would take it in myself and talk to a person first hand telling them what you want done.
I too have a rex kit. What you need to do with that is screw it in all the way then back off a full turn. That's basicly the same as having your velocity screw all the way out.
-Micah
I too have a rex kit. What you need to do with that is screw it in all the way then back off a full turn. That's basicly the same as having your velocity screw all the way out.
-Micah