that is a point actually, getting the valve out to lube is a job and a half, you have to take all the front off of the ego to access it
Lucky Ego Air Assist valve
- Thread starter bulldog2k
- Start date
exactly, if you dont have a spare gat you wont be playing for a while if it goes at a tournament thats why i am waiting to see what happens
My AA valve arrived yesterday so i spent last night installing, fixing leaks and tuning it.
I'm not sure what kind of grease was on it, thick blue stuff that seemed to be going hard?
Anyway i stripped and cleaned everything and lubed it with evolve butter grease (i use it in the regs as well and no issue with it so far, also works great for cocker MQ valves) installed it and swapped the lpr springs.
Dwell at 7 with the stock rammer but a custon bolt and delrin pin (bolt and pin weigh 21g) and lpr on 2 1/2 turns. 140 fps +- 30 is all i managed like that.
Increased dwell until it was consistant (settled for 8.5ms) but velocity was still only 200ish so i started backing out the lpr until i managed 250fps.
Then increased the hpr by half a turn and got 287 fps followed by a leak out of the gripframe.
Changed all the o-rings on the rammer but still it leaked so i stripped the noid and found it full of metal filings. Cleaned and lubed the noid and the leak stopped.
It now shoots around 280FPS +-3 (this is with reballs and stock barrel) with dwell at 8.5, stock rammer lpr 1/2 to 1 turn from flush, stock spring with a 21g bolt/pin combo.
If i get time i'll put some paint through it later to see how it shoots.
I'm not sure what kind of grease was on it, thick blue stuff that seemed to be going hard?
Anyway i stripped and cleaned everything and lubed it with evolve butter grease (i use it in the regs as well and no issue with it so far, also works great for cocker MQ valves) installed it and swapped the lpr springs.
Dwell at 7 with the stock rammer but a custon bolt and delrin pin (bolt and pin weigh 21g) and lpr on 2 1/2 turns. 140 fps +- 30 is all i managed like that.
Increased dwell until it was consistant (settled for 8.5ms) but velocity was still only 200ish so i started backing out the lpr until i managed 250fps.
Then increased the hpr by half a turn and got 287 fps followed by a leak out of the gripframe.
Changed all the o-rings on the rammer but still it leaked so i stripped the noid and found it full of metal filings. Cleaned and lubed the noid and the leak stopped.
It now shoots around 280FPS +-3 (this is with reballs and stock barrel) with dwell at 8.5, stock rammer lpr 1/2 to 1 turn from flush, stock spring with a 21g bolt/pin combo.
If i get time i'll put some paint through it later to see how it shoots.
Then planet will have no reason to bring out an 07 EGO right?rst steve said:If it ain't broke???????????
Come on, we just love to mess and buy new doobries regardless of if they actually make a difference.
Jack did state on pbnation that there was a slight benefit from running a ballanced valve but the extra maintenance and complexity was not worth it for the small benefit. Not when people can't be bothered to do even basic maintenance on the stock marker.
Strawb,
Perhaps you should look into getting a lighter hammer.
The hammer is by far the heaviest part of the cycling mass, reducing the weight of the bolt and pin does very little in comparison.
For example the evolve newton kit (which is a balanced valve for the angel) replaces the 35g stock hammer with a 3g plastic one (reducing the weight by about 90%).
I am suprised the kit doesnt come with a lighter hammer, perhaps they cannot source a light material that is strong enough to perform the function of the ego 'rammer'.
Perhaps you should look into getting a lighter hammer.
The hammer is by far the heaviest part of the cycling mass, reducing the weight of the bolt and pin does very little in comparison.
For example the evolve newton kit (which is a balanced valve for the angel) replaces the 35g stock hammer with a 3g plastic one (reducing the weight by about 90%).
I am suprised the kit doesnt come with a lighter hammer, perhaps they cannot source a light material that is strong enough to perform the function of the ego 'rammer'.
John
It is something i will be looking at and to be honest pretty much anything should be strong enough as the poppet is now entirely delrin, the only area that may need some strength is where the bolt pin sits.
I'm undecided as to making a ally rammer or some plastic with just the front being ally or brass.
The stock rammer weigh's something like 30g and the stock bolt is 40g so with just my lighter bolt and delrin pin i've saved 19g.
If i can put the chocolate down for a couple of hours later i'll see about making a lighter rammer.
I'm not really looking to reduce the kick as i don't even notice it when playing, however a efficiency increase would be nice. Especially with the Big Game in a couple of weeks
It is something i will be looking at and to be honest pretty much anything should be strong enough as the poppet is now entirely delrin, the only area that may need some strength is where the bolt pin sits.
I'm undecided as to making a ally rammer or some plastic with just the front being ally or brass.
The stock rammer weigh's something like 30g and the stock bolt is 40g so with just my lighter bolt and delrin pin i've saved 19g.
If i can put the chocolate down for a couple of hours later i'll see about making a lighter rammer.
I'm not really looking to reduce the kick as i don't even notice it when playing, however a efficiency increase would be nice. Especially with the Big Game in a couple of weeks
Well i've just put a couple of hoppers through it and horible consistancy and efficiency.
The rammer seems difficult to push forward and back even with well lubed o-rings it feels like it's sticking.
After some messing and head scratching i think i know what the problem is.
They haven't annodised it!
At this point very p1ssed off as they charge the same for one that is annodised
I know when i ordered it i selected silver (RAW) which i assumed was just annodised but not coloured but nope it's just raw ally.
(If anyone ever want's to check if somethings annodised just put a multimeter accross it and check the resistance, if it's annodised it will be high)
Guess i need to dig out the anno kit.
The rammer seems difficult to push forward and back even with well lubed o-rings it feels like it's sticking.
After some messing and head scratching i think i know what the problem is.
They haven't annodised it!
At this point very p1ssed off as they charge the same for one that is annodised
I know when i ordered it i selected silver (RAW) which i assumed was just annodised but not coloured but nope it's just raw ally.
(If anyone ever want's to check if somethings annodised just put a multimeter accross it and check the resistance, if it's annodised it will be high)
Guess i need to dig out the anno kit.
Strawb,
That does sound very dodgy, fillings in your solenoid, now a sticky ram. I hope your gun is allright.
Raw does usually mean unannodised, not clear anno'd.
But I cant think why anyone would do an internal part raw. I mean raw ally parts are for people who want to do their own custom milling or anno job.
Dont give up on the air balanced valve. Like dropping that garret turbo in your vauhall nova, it rarely works straight away without a complete overhaul of the system.
I only have experience setting this type of valve up on Angels but I can tell you they do work very well, and once its setup right, you will know. Concistency will suddenly tighten up, and the gun will shoot ropes quietly and without fuss.
Dont be too preoccupied with lowering the LPR pressure too much. Although it can help reduce kick to a small degree, all LPRs are designed for a particular range of pressures. Once you take them out of that range (especially below it) the output is less concistent.
Secondly, reducing the pressure moving your bolt will reduce the speed it moves at. This will lower your cycle time which will reduce rate of fire and possibly efficiency.
Thirdly, without any means of seeing how your LPR is holding up (such as a gauge), both in terms of its output pressure and its recharge rate, you are left even more in the dark when troubleshooting.
Do spend alot of effort reducing the cycling mass, really the only limit to how low you can go is the strength of the materials used.
A lighter cycling mass has other benefits besides the low kick.
Efficiency is gained because we are not doing as much work moving the cycling mass.
Rate of fire is increased, because our bolt now accelerates and faster.
From my experiences with angels, go for a combination of low cycling mass, and low dwell coupled with sensible LPR pressures.
(dwell 5- 8 , LPR around 50 - 70PSI on an angel) gives a lovely setup.
robof9,
I dont think Titanium is the best idea unless its coated (or a very expensive alloy). Titanium reacts readily with nitrogen, which will be present in the air used to power the gun.
Ti would be OK for something that isnt moving, but the nitride layer would be erroded by the movement of the ram.
Maybe delrin would work (looks in the direction of Olgeez) there are similar designs of gun which have aftermarket delrin rams available.
That does sound very dodgy, fillings in your solenoid, now a sticky ram. I hope your gun is allright.
Raw does usually mean unannodised, not clear anno'd.
But I cant think why anyone would do an internal part raw. I mean raw ally parts are for people who want to do their own custom milling or anno job.
Dont give up on the air balanced valve. Like dropping that garret turbo in your vauhall nova, it rarely works straight away without a complete overhaul of the system.
I only have experience setting this type of valve up on Angels but I can tell you they do work very well, and once its setup right, you will know. Concistency will suddenly tighten up, and the gun will shoot ropes quietly and without fuss.
Dont be too preoccupied with lowering the LPR pressure too much. Although it can help reduce kick to a small degree, all LPRs are designed for a particular range of pressures. Once you take them out of that range (especially below it) the output is less concistent.
Secondly, reducing the pressure moving your bolt will reduce the speed it moves at. This will lower your cycle time which will reduce rate of fire and possibly efficiency.
Thirdly, without any means of seeing how your LPR is holding up (such as a gauge), both in terms of its output pressure and its recharge rate, you are left even more in the dark when troubleshooting.
Do spend alot of effort reducing the cycling mass, really the only limit to how low you can go is the strength of the materials used.
A lighter cycling mass has other benefits besides the low kick.
Efficiency is gained because we are not doing as much work moving the cycling mass.
Rate of fire is increased, because our bolt now accelerates and faster.
From my experiences with angels, go for a combination of low cycling mass, and low dwell coupled with sensible LPR pressures.
(dwell 5- 8 , LPR around 50 - 70PSI on an angel) gives a lovely setup.
robof9,
I dont think Titanium is the best idea unless its coated (or a very expensive alloy). Titanium reacts readily with nitrogen, which will be present in the air used to power the gun.
Ti would be OK for something that isnt moving, but the nitride layer would be erroded by the movement of the ram.
Maybe delrin would work (looks in the direction of Olgeez) there are similar designs of gun which have aftermarket delrin rams available.