loctite....again!

[jahlad]

cool, heating it sounds like a good plan....ive got a blow torch (im a chef, we all have one )
is it a good idea to strip the block down first or will i be ok doing it on the marker? also what do i do about any loctite left in the threads? just pick it out?

the link feed is a smart idea, sort of thing i wish id think of! i did mess about with a trigger link using a microswitch a couple years ago but ditched it as the frame needed modding to much to mount the switch and it got messy....when ive got a bit of cash ill prob order one off you so i can fiddle

 

[Silentbob]

Woh woh woh

There are varying strengths dependant on NUMBER, not COLOUR.

What I suggest for stuff you want to come off easy again is Loctite 242 (Happens to be blue) Nutlock, this is classed as medium strength, is vibration proof, and drops strength rapidly when faced with hot water. Most of Loctites Red range tend to be pretty tough up to 100 degrees C.

Putting a 'blow torch' (FFS what do you think of your marker) is not a good idea, as alloy can be easily warped by sudden heating.

 

[vantrepes]

Um, no one suggested he blow torch the gun, and he's looking to get a plug out, not what to use to seal a new one in. Personally, I use Teflon tape. Blue Loc-Tite is an OK sealer, but 1/8th NPT is over the suggested size so it's thinner than it should be, and Red is just a pain in the ass to get out, but seals great.
You put a hex wrench in the plug, then heat the wrench. With a long reach wrench, the torch is a ways away from the gun.
Also, all the company's I have seen have followed the Loc-Tite color code. Different colors do mean different strengths, but the different codes most often apply to how it is applied, or resistance to special conditions.


jahlad:
Most times, I remove the grip frame, and go at it. Just don't forget what is PAST the wrench, make sure the tip of the torch is over the body of the gun, pointed slightly up, and away from the rest of the front pneumatics. As for left overs, just pick them out. The block won't get hot enough to burn it out, but what's left is rather brittle, and will chip right out with a pick.

 

[jahlad]

cool cheers guys, will have a go at heating it when ive got the guage to go in the hole

as for strengths ive got some red (number 634 i think) loctite that im told sets like concerete...i dont like making stuff that permanant on my marker as im always fiddling with it/adding bits
am changing my 3-way later and plumbing my a.i.r. in and hopfully my blade will arrive in the morning so i can fiddle with the timeing

242 is the stuff i was after, smartparts are the only place online i can find it but its a blumming tenner a bottle! gonna try halfords later

 

[jahlad]

Originally posted by Mark
Halfords

just been down, they have two grades nut lock (removable) and studlock (concrete in a bottle)
jobs a good un

 

[Gyroscope]

The folks from AKA told me that teflon tape shreds will foul solenoids. I've used it plenty, but on my Excalibur, it's blue 242... just in case.

 

[stiler83]

The stuff you want is Loctite 243 Threadlocker. It has the same strenght at 242 but is resistant to oil and self priming.
This is what I have used for years.. http://www.loctite.co.uk/PRODUCTS/243.htm

Warpig did a review, see the link.... http://www.warpig.com/paintball/technical/loctite/index.shtml


You should be able to purchases it from any hardware store or Tool company.

If you have any problems you can get it from..
R & M Sutcliffe
Clifton Warehouse, Bolton Brow
Sowerby Bridge, West Yorkshire
HX6 2BY
Tel: 01422 831038

 

[Philip]

Jahlad, whatever you do, dont get the wheel nut lock from halfords....


I still cant the the wheel off my bike.

 

[Mark]

Well phillip what else could we expect from you , I said Halfords knowing that you can get the blue stuff there...didn't know which is was IE thread or wheel lock

 

[Azureus]

Was reading some old PGI`s (1994) last night and they recomended loctite 542 .