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I have a bling problem

headrock6

Bloody Yanks!!
Jun 5, 2002
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Strong Island
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Originally posted by TOOLE
currency conversions are rough, as are prices:

AKA viking: £800 - $1200
Angel speed: £800 - $1200
GZ timmy: £1000 - $1500

hows that for expensive?????? damn yanks...... :p

Actually,I think the conversions are pretty close...

AKA Viking:$760
Speed:$900
GZ Timmy:$1000



Not that tragic...Joe Bob...Try a Stock LED Matrix..About $650 and they rip if you set it up right...But if your technically challenged then it might not be for you as youll spend more time with your tech than actually playing with it..:)
 

TOOLE

Banned
Feb 27, 2003
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yes, they are more expensive, i find american prices are about 30% lower than british, or british prices are 50% higher than american ones.

when you are talking about £300 difference in cost, it is a LOT of money.
 

TOOLE

Banned
Feb 27, 2003
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they are all electros, as are most non cocker tourney guns.

i would really reccomend an electro, even if you are not a fan, as almost all tourney players play with electro's, even at the very bottom of the scale. *toole cowers in fear of the oncoming flaming from cocker owners*
 

headrock6

Bloody Yanks!!
Jun 5, 2002
591
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Strong Island
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Originally posted by TOOLE

or british prices are 50% higher than american ones.

when you are talking about £300 difference in cost, it is a LOT of money.

You guys are getting f*cked over there huh:eek: ....


Joe Bob-Then get a cocker for $350..This way you can add things on as you like and if you ever feel the need to go electro you can always add an E Frame...Problem solved
 

Philip

Whip it out..
Mar 24, 2002
3,040
12
63
Ellesmere Port
Yup, the taxman is getting waddage from all of us.....17.5% on everything :( Then theres the increase in prices for the fun of it :eek:
 

Gadget

Platinum Member
Jul 16, 2002
1,759
619
148
Essex, UK
Originally posted by joe bob
crap...

Im not a big fan of electros (as you all know) do any of those not have e frames? (lots of anoying questions I know)
If you don't want an electro you're really looking at either a cocker or a 'mag for tourny use. Cockers tend to be more 'bling'-able, as they're ally bodied and can be milled + anodised.

Mags tend to be a bit more subtle, but can still look pretty ->Example

Or go for an E-mag and get two markers in one - can run it as an electro or with a flick of a switch run as a manual RT mag. E-Mag
 

Gadget

Platinum Member
Jul 16, 2002
1,759
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Essex, UK
My mag was built from parts. I got the bits I wanted from a dealer on the Automags.org forums. Components were:

Polished Hopper Left Emag body
X-Valve with Level 10
Black Blade Intelliframe
Black Omega Body Rail with twistlock + bushing
Field Strip screw + frame screw

Probably cost about $600 - it's actually cheaper to buy a brand new fully assembled RT Pro, which looks slightly different but is basically the same marker.

The emag was $900 - cost more than a stock Emag due to having the fade ano and ULE (ultra light) frame and rail. Came with the stainless DYE barrel.

As to how mags work.....by the mighty power of cut n paste I give you:

Mags operate as 'blow forward' markers. Rather than have a spring push the bolt forward to fire and gas force it back to re-cock, gas forces the bolt forward and a spring re-cocks it.

There's two different types of Mag valves - the classic A.I.R (as fitted to the 68 Automag, Classic, Minimag etc) and the RT/ReTro valve which is used in RT, RT Pro, E-Mag. There's also the X-Valve which is basically a ReTro made of ally rather than stainless.

The classic valve works like this:

Your air source is connected into the rear of the valve which acts as a regulator (which is why mags don't need secondary regs, just the bottle reg).

The gas flows from there into an air resevoir which is located behind the bolt - the bolt acts as a 'cork', preventing the gas from escaping down the barrel.

When the air pressure becomes high enough to overcome the force of the regulator spring/piston, the reg pin closes onto the reg seat to close the air supply (by dialling the reg up/down you alter the pressure in the reg and thus alter the velocity).

Pulling the trigger makes the trigger sear rock, which does two things - the rear of the sear moves upwards and closes the on/off valve which sits between the regulator and the air resevoir (this means that there is now a precise amount of gas at the set pressure sitting behind the bolt). The front of the sear (which hooks onto the bolt) drops, releasing the bolt - which (in the same way as the cork in a bottle of champagne) is forced forwards by the gas in the resevoir.

The front of the bolt pushes a paintball into the barrel and then the inner-stem of the bolt 'pops' clear of the power tube o-ring, allowing the gas from the resevoir to flow through it and fire the ball.

Once the gas pressure behind the bolt has dropped sufficiently, the main spring forces the bolt backwards and recocks the marker.

Releasing the trigger allows the sear to re-grip the bolt and allows the on/off pin to be forced downwards, allowing gas to flow through the on/off into the resevoir again.

The RT valve works in a similar manner - but whereas in the classic the pressure on the on/off pin is equal to the regulated pressure inside the valve, in the RT it is actually the unregulated pressure from your air system - which means that the on/off pin kicks the trigger back after firing with more pressure behind it.

The RT also recharges faster - but I'm slightly hazy about how that works, something to do with a greater pressure differential between the reg and resevoir....

The E-mag works in just the same way as the mechanical mags, execpt that in 'E' mode pulling the trigger (which has magnets inside it) trips a magnetic (hall effect) sensor and actuates a solenoid that pulls on the sear, firing the marker.