Originally posted by Walker (PsychoPimps)
Poo......
You'd have to spend about another 200 to make it worthwhile on stuff like a shorter three-way like the angry, a faster ram like the Palmer Quickram, a lighter cocking rod like the Kapp, and a lighter back block.
i know racegun are selling standard cockers with raceframes, but you really need a custom cocker with a shorter back block like the evo or eclipse, which also come with the fast pneaumatics like the ram and 3 way, plus the lighter cocking rod......
From my quick calculations:
Vert feed "stock" cocker from Race (black grip): 938 Euros (approx £573) plus postage (??)
All you would need at most, is a Palmer quick ram, and maybe a delrin bolt (if you can find them for the new style cocker back block). (no 3-way needed, as the race grip uses an electronic one)
Quick Ram: 39 Euros from Race (about £24 quid) (they'd fit it too no doubt).
So, for approx £600 plus postage - you'd have a marker that ripped it with the best of them
If you buy a stock vert feed and 'seconds' blade frame from planet, along with a Shocktech Bomb 3-way, I make it about £567.20 plus postage. Obviously the ram is not upgraded, so your back block still cycles at "stock" rate, which still isn't bad BTW.
Also - does the blade frame have to option on having an air assist, or an anti-chop eye? (plus other upgrades too wonderful to mention)
your better off just buying a blade framed eclipse or evo, i can rack off the same amount with a blade than with a raceframe.
At the chrony station, sure, an evo with a blade will do the same as an evo with a race, but after 8 minutes and almost 1000 rounds?
I've used a blade-evo, which I could fire faster than my race. Up to a point. Maybe I'm not so hot with the trigger finger (what? the g/f's been busy with work lately, my practice time has been limited!

) but towards the end of a game, a player shooting an electro has the advantage, as his fingers aint so tired.
plus you have to fiddle with the settings all the time with the raceframe.
Not necessarily true - Raceguns rock as they are. I'll admit, you
CAN fiddle with them all the time

but once you've got your optimum settings, you never need to touch them again.
Also, IMHO it it a whole world of easier to time a race grip than a blade frame.
Blade frame - little squeeze on the trigger, ahh, that's about where the 3-way should activate, set that, fiddle inside the gun setting the lug to the right position in the hammer. Nope still feels a bit sloppy, fiddle fiddle. That's it.
Race frame - connect cable to grip and pc/palm pda. Right, my timings are Xms, Xms, Xms, Xms, Xms. Click. Done. Feels a bit off, change that setting to Yms. Click. Done. Chopping a little - increase the time the bolt stays open. Click. etc etc.
Just my tuppence worth - as long as you buy a cocker, whatever flavour, then you'll be doing the right thing in my mind
Peace....
