Sorry, Skeet, I must beg to differ. There are any number of different settings that might work well for various markers, and while it is true that one set of ... um... settings will be best for an individual marker, generalizations only approach the optimum settings for a particular gun.
That said, these two guys have, in my view, put it best.
These are quotes from pbnation. This is a really good explanation for how to do it.
"I set the SON time to what works, it that simple! When I setup a new Cocker, I generally give it 1-2ms extra till everything is broken in! this will drain the battery faster, but will eliminate about 75% of the initial problems we see on the forum! Generally, a 3-4ms SON time will work great on most cockers with a flat polished lug and greased seer, a light main spring is also a big help here! Keep in mind the SON setting has no bearing on your ROF!
I have come to believe that when using a force feed loader like the Evo II or Halo B, suction timing is really a waste of time, and I tend to concentrate on eliminating blowback! do the tissue test WITH paint and adjust the CDEL time to the lowest you can with no blowback, then leave it!
Next, I go about finding the Bolt Open Time, by starting at 5ms CON setting and keep raising this till the seer actually catches the lug, this setting will vary greatly depending on the moving mass, quality of ram, and the cocking pressure used!
The second half of the CON timing is the Load Time, I find this by dropping a single ball in the vert. feed and moving the CON setting up till it actually chambers the ball! This will give you the total Con setting, but keep in mind the total CON setting is only used when the eye is turned off, this should give you a safe setting in case of eye failure, for a Evo II and Halo B, or add a little for a Revi.
Lastly the COFF setting can be set at or just below the reading you got for the Bolt Open Time, so if you got a open time of 25ms, you should be able to set the COFF at about 23ms and be safe! The theory here is the ram will close the bolt a little faster then it opens it since it doesn't have to compress the main spring, also remember the lighter the main spring you use the less difference in open and close time there will be, so you will want to test for drop off in rapid fire strings, if it does happen, just bump up the COFF time till the strings stabilize....
That's about it.... "
-Hammer 1
"Test, test, and more testing. At least w/ me, and I think Hammer is the same way.... I first went about learning how the e-blade worked, then I studied the graphs and theories about the settings for the e-blade. From there I put that knowledge to use; forming some points I knew I Could start at. From those points I did just what u said...kept going down till it wouldn't work anymore, then I bumped it up a few. Actually the theory I follow is slightly different. You only need paint for one thing w/ my way of setting the e-blade up. W/ my way, say for the CON, u take it all the way down till the gun won't fire anymore. Then u bump it up one. Thats your gun's open time. Then u need to account for the load time of the different hoppers. If you have a Halo, 15 ms is a pretty good point to work w/. The rest I don't really remember. So u add on 15 ms to your CON time, and there u have the CON time set. For the COFF time u drop it till it starts burping again. Then u raise it. The Coff time u really need paint, b/c you then shoot it w/ paint under high ROF's and u raise it till it no longer has drop off under high ROF's. The SON time ...well follow the book. The CDEL...it's just depends on if your going for speed, or suction. Although, it's my belief they are not inversely related as it may seem, and share a hand in hand relationship. But yeah peeps lets see some settings! I'm in the process of building a whole new set up built just for speed...it's gonna be as fast as possible, so we'll see what I can achieve w/ it. "
-Tanner
That said, these two guys have, in my view, put it best.
These are quotes from pbnation. This is a really good explanation for how to do it.
"I set the SON time to what works, it that simple! When I setup a new Cocker, I generally give it 1-2ms extra till everything is broken in! this will drain the battery faster, but will eliminate about 75% of the initial problems we see on the forum! Generally, a 3-4ms SON time will work great on most cockers with a flat polished lug and greased seer, a light main spring is also a big help here! Keep in mind the SON setting has no bearing on your ROF!
I have come to believe that when using a force feed loader like the Evo II or Halo B, suction timing is really a waste of time, and I tend to concentrate on eliminating blowback! do the tissue test WITH paint and adjust the CDEL time to the lowest you can with no blowback, then leave it!
Next, I go about finding the Bolt Open Time, by starting at 5ms CON setting and keep raising this till the seer actually catches the lug, this setting will vary greatly depending on the moving mass, quality of ram, and the cocking pressure used!
The second half of the CON timing is the Load Time, I find this by dropping a single ball in the vert. feed and moving the CON setting up till it actually chambers the ball! This will give you the total Con setting, but keep in mind the total CON setting is only used when the eye is turned off, this should give you a safe setting in case of eye failure, for a Evo II and Halo B, or add a little for a Revi.
Lastly the COFF setting can be set at or just below the reading you got for the Bolt Open Time, so if you got a open time of 25ms, you should be able to set the COFF at about 23ms and be safe! The theory here is the ram will close the bolt a little faster then it opens it since it doesn't have to compress the main spring, also remember the lighter the main spring you use the less difference in open and close time there will be, so you will want to test for drop off in rapid fire strings, if it does happen, just bump up the COFF time till the strings stabilize....
That's about it.... "
-Hammer 1
"Test, test, and more testing. At least w/ me, and I think Hammer is the same way.... I first went about learning how the e-blade worked, then I studied the graphs and theories about the settings for the e-blade. From there I put that knowledge to use; forming some points I knew I Could start at. From those points I did just what u said...kept going down till it wouldn't work anymore, then I bumped it up a few. Actually the theory I follow is slightly different. You only need paint for one thing w/ my way of setting the e-blade up. W/ my way, say for the CON, u take it all the way down till the gun won't fire anymore. Then u bump it up one. Thats your gun's open time. Then u need to account for the load time of the different hoppers. If you have a Halo, 15 ms is a pretty good point to work w/. The rest I don't really remember. So u add on 15 ms to your CON time, and there u have the CON time set. For the COFF time u drop it till it starts burping again. Then u raise it. The Coff time u really need paint, b/c you then shoot it w/ paint under high ROF's and u raise it till it no longer has drop off under high ROF's. The SON time ...well follow the book. The CDEL...it's just depends on if your going for speed, or suction. Although, it's my belief they are not inversely related as it may seem, and share a hand in hand relationship. But yeah peeps lets see some settings! I'm in the process of building a whole new set up built just for speed...it's gonna be as fast as possible, so we'll see what I can achieve w/ it. "
-Tanner
