Cocker Chop Down.

[Slim Clan]

FAO Brian,

Brian its a pre 2k cocker with pre 2k bolt length being upgraded to a 2k+ mini, which will take the new bolts,

I've got a Shocktech SFL minicocker and the Frankenstein pre 2k and the bolts, cocking rods and gun back blocks all have a difference in length of, just under 1cm from the back pin position.(bolt) to the gas intake hole thing (bolt).

I only want to cut it down to give me something to do (plus I'd be able to chop and change parts between the two.)

Anyone have a sectional drawing with sizes of a pre 2k cocker and a post 2k mini?

Regards

Slim

 

[DangerousBrian]

FAO Brian,

Originally posted by Slim KW
Brian its a pre 2k cocker with pre 2k bolt length being upgraded to a 2k+ mini, which will take the new bolts,

I've got a Shocktech SFL minicocker and the Frankenstein pre 2k and the bolts, cocking rods and gun back blocks all have a difference in length of, just under 1cm from the back pin position.(bolt) to the gas intake hole thing (bolt).

I only want to cut it down to give me something to do (plus I'd be able to chop and change parts between the two.)

Anyone have a sectional drawing with sizes of a pre 2k cocker and a post 2k mini?

Regards

Slim

ahhh.....sorry, didnt realise u wanted to make it 2k lenght bolt, thought u just wanted it to be a mini.



lol, u that bored u wanna hack up yuh cocker

 

[enid_puceflange]

its better he does start choppin,

cos it will help to stop him pullin his plonker!

hey slim,
sorry i aint been textin dude, lost my phone on monday night!
see ya at trainin on sun pal

gc

 

[jahlad]

ive got a minicocker (1995) only difference between it and a cocker is as everyone has said is that it has a smaller airchamber....i got the valve reworked by planet so i could get more air in there! a volumizer would prob do the same thing tho....at the back end tho you will have to cut down the back block to get it to take a 2000+ bolt....everything else is the same.

you will need a shorter 3way rod and cocking rod too.

 

[dr.strangelove]

Why would you need a shorter cocking rod? The cocking rod is the thing that screws into the hammer so that the marker can re-cock. He might need a shorter pump arm, but why would he need a shorter cocking rod?

 

[Slim Clan]

FAO Dr. Lurve.

Its cos the pre 97s have a larger back block than the post 2ks, also the minicockers have a p block back which youll know makes the back of the gun flat, so the back block gets cut down and the back of the bolt housing gets cut down. like so, http://www.dyeprecision.com/images/Guns/mini/1a.gif

So you need to take about 1cm off the cocking rod, actuating rod, and back block. Also you need to use post 2k bolts,

The air chamber is gonna be the difficult bit tho, im not sure about the sizes,

Oh bacons ready,

Yum

Hey brain, I just need to feel like im doing something creative,

 

[Slim Clan]

First Hurdle.

Ok first main question,

The gas thru nut that holds the front block in place, when you say re-threaded, you mean threading of the front of the gun, I dont need a new nut but I do need to widen the chamber inside the nut?

That right?

 

[jahlad]

oops yer you need a shorter pump rod not cocking rod...my bad!

 

[dr.strangelove]

Slim,

I've used the same cocking rod from two of my 97's on my 2k1 and vice versa, it doesn't make a difference, the back block is the same thickness where the cocking rod hits on the 2k and above as it was on the 97, but you do need a shorter actuating rod and pump arm. I think you're confusing the cocking rod for the pump arm in this case. And by the way, not all minicockers have P-blocks, you can use any standard back block on most of 'em.

 

[steve_e]

First Hurdle.

Originally posted by Slim KW
Ok first main question,

The gas thru nut that holds the front block in place, when you say re-threaded, you mean threading of the front of the gun, I dont need a new nut but I do need to widen the chamber inside the nut?

That right?

Basically in a nutshell, yes, if your going to keep the old gas-thru bolt then you will need to widen the air chamber ( normally to same width as the nut) or you could get a 2k gas-thru bolt, which would allow you to widen it further. The alternative is to widne the air chamber and then replace the gas thru bolt with a low pressure chamber.

At the end of the day what you trying to achieve is enough volume of the pressure behind the valve so it doesn't starve. A greater volume allows lower operating pressure so being gentler on paint. If its tiny you'll probably end up with about 800psi behind the valve which ain't great on paint!

When you set up the inline reg you will have to find the sweetspot for the pressure, i.e. turn the pressure up until the FPS begin to drop, at this point you have the optimum pressure behind the valve for the spring tensions and so being most efficient and not starving the valve.

Hows that!!?

Steve