Yes. A lot of people use them for a while, then go back to the old tank on gun config.
CO2 is ok, considering the initial savings. If you keep playing long enough, I predict you will want to use compressed air/ N2 (same tanks). But there is so much money to lay out at first, that I can understand someone wanting to go with CO2.
That said, there are two things I would recommend: go with a 20 oz, and get an anti-siphon line installed. The 20 oz tank is not all that big in comparisn to compressed air tanks, and you will have a lot more shots per tank. The main advantage of CO2, IMO, is that you get more shots than with compressed air. I say make the most of that advantage. The disadvantage is that CO2 is far less consistent in the velocity you get at the chronograph. That is part of the reason for the anti-siphon. This is a tube installed inside the tank that sticks up out of the liquid part of the CO2. It must be installed to suit the individual bottom line adapter, since the threads on each adapter start in a slightly different place. Liquid CO2 entering the gun can damage orings by making them swell. When they do, they might not fit where they are supposed to, and they can get chipped by the surrounding parts. Also, liquid CO2 will want to evaporate, which will pull heat from the body of the gun and make it get all frosty, which is uncomfortable. If part of the CO2 in a shot is in liquid form, the rapid change in volume as it turns into a gas makes velocities really inconsistent.
If you use a remote hose, you wouldn'tneed to worry about an anti-siphon.
CO2 will not form a liquid at atmospheric pressure, but inside a pressure vessel, it will. When released, it will expa rapidly, but to change into a gas, it takes heat from the surrounding environment. Usually, this means that the tank forms droplets of condensation and frost as it cools. Don't put a neoprene sleeve on your tank, since this keeps the tank from warming up from exposure to the air around it.