air bottle leaking very slowly is this normal?

[icejohn]

tx to all and carmaelectric and tom skeet

tx for the offer tom,

I did know about the mineral oil thing big bang sineraio although other people mignt not have know as it a public forum fair enough.

============but to solve my problem ( I would like to try have a go myself)

Is it just a case of :-degas bottle, spanner out the nipple with a shifter spanner, retape it with (think i got some white plumbing pipe tape real thin stuff i got from banq) (basically going to follow up skeets instructions)

someone has said blue locktite (242, 243 weak) and someone else suggested black locktite ?572 heavy duty stuff? Unless this 572 never comes off again and you cannt repair you bottle later?
Blue seems a bit weak to me? locktite says its comes off easily. Which one should i use?????

The burst discs can be said to be working fine I guess as I do have air in my bottle.

 

[icejohn]

bottle still leaking from nipple

bottle still leaking from nipple / contact with the reg.

Hi guys just to let people know. used the dark blue lock tite as everyone advised. I put on enough (but not like ketchup). It is still leaking although very slowly. So the leak is not bigger or smaller about the same really.

The guys on site recommend white ptfe tape (yes i know everyone says it can get into you maker). They guys on the paintball site all swear by it.

So question do i live with the small leak? or use ptfe tape which should stop the leak? or Try another kinda lock tite maybe thicker or stonger? (some has already told me if i use option c 9 (stonger locktite) i might never get the nipple out again to change washer later on if need be).

Please let me know what you think i should do.

 

[TendringLOEB]

AFAIK, mineral oil is a no no. Because it is based on a combustible material. All oils are extracted from crude oil, petrol, diesel, kerosene etc..all come from the same place via fractional distillation...(they heat the oil up at the bottom and as it rises and cools at different rates, different substances are filtered off).

When you fire air into the bottle, it mixes with the oil, but also, friction is generated...you can feel its warm on the outside of the reg, so you can imagine how warm it is in the tiny hole inside.

Someone with lots of Physics knowledge, I think corrected me as to how the oil/air mix is ignited, I think...but, heat fuel and oxygen = flame...nuff said.

Silicon is not a combustible material in that way, so...wont go bang.

From my understanding, and studying what happened at the bottle explosions in both Madrid and Budapest, it all has something to do with Minimum Ignition Temperature.

For example, stated previously, certain types of lubricants specifically oils are petroleum based. 3 in 1, WD40 amongst others are the most common household lubricants and as such paintballers may be tempted to use them to service their air systems.

Now flammable substances such as petroleum or petroleum based oils all have a specific temperature at which they ignite, which usually is nothing to worry about as long as proper handling precautions are taken. However when petroleum and other flammable substances are mixed with air under pressure (that's the important bit), the minimum ignition temperature is lowered proportionately to the pressure.

Now with certain conditions present, such as the 35* heat in Budapest, and the amount of additional heat generated by friction when filling the bottle, can cause the mixture of oil and air to ignite quite easily inside the small volume of regulator chamber (this also becomes a factor in ignition temperatures). This ignited vapour then gets super hot as it is blasted by more air from the fill station. This in turn damages the very metal casing, joints and entire structure of the attached regulator eventually leading to a catastrophic failure of the regulator. All occurring in a matter of a few seconds.

We saw both in Madrid and Budapest examples of the regulator being shattered into several high velocity fragments and scorching of the entire setup. As well as that the thread of the bottle was stripped where the regulator has wormed its way apart from the bottle under extreme pressure.

Here's a graph to back up what I just rambled about:

http://www.firesandexplosions.ca/hazards/images/hydrocarbon_fuels_clip_image002_0000.jpg

That's for a mixture for methane and air, but you can still quite clearly see the parabolic curve in direct relation to ignition temperature versus pressure.

Hope that helps, I could be wrong though, I'm no physicist.

bottle still leaking from nipple / contact with the reg.

Hi guys just to let people know. used the dark blue lock tite as everyone advised. I put on enough (but not like ketchup). It is still leaking although very slowly. So the leak is not bigger or smaller about the same really.

The guys on site recommend white ptfe tape (yes i know everyone says it can get into you maker). They guys on the paintball site all swear by it.

So question do i live with the small leak? or use ptfe tape which should stop the leak? or Try another kinda lock tite maybe thicker or stonger? (some has already told me if i use option c 9 (stonger locktite) i might never get the nipple out again to change washer later on if need be).

Please let me know what you think i should do.

I have the same with my bottle, I've changed the fill nipple, tried loctite and PTFE but to no avail. I've also tried a mixture of the two but that worked even worse! Good luck bud, I've just come to accept it now

Paul

 

[jitsuwarrior]

From my understanding, and studying what happened at the bottle explosions in both Madrid and Budapest, it all has something to do with Minimum Ignition Temperature.

For example, stated previously, certain types of lubricants specifically oils are petroleum based. 3 in 1, WD40 amongst others are the most common household lubricants and as such paintballers may be tempted to use them to service their air systems.

Now flammable substances such as petroleum or petroleum based oils all have a specific temperature at which they ignite, which usually is nothing to worry about as long as proper handling precautions are taken. However when petroleum and other flammable substances are mixed with air under pressure (that's the important bit), the minimum ignition temperature is lowered proportionately to the pressure.

Now with certain conditions present, such as the 35* heat in Budapest, and the amount of additional heat generated by friction when filling the bottle, can cause the mixture of oil and air to ignite quite easily inside the small volume of regulator chamber (this also becomes a factor in ignition temperatures). This ignited vapour then gets super hot as it is blasted by more air from the fill station. This in turn damages the very metal casing, joints and entire structure of the attached regulator eventually leading to a catastrophic failure of the regulator. All occurring in a matter of a few seconds.

We saw both in Madrid and Budapest examples of the regulator being shattered into several high velocity fragments and scorching of the entire setup. As well as that the thread of the bottle was stripped where the regulator has wormed its way apart from the bottle under extreme pressure.

Here's a graph to back up what I just rambled about:

http://www.firesandexplosions.ca/hazards/images/hydrocarbon_fuels_clip_image002_0000.jpg

That's for a mixture for methane and air, but you can still quite clearly see the parabolic curve in direct relation to ignition temperature versus pressure.

Hope that helps, I could be wrong though, I'm no physicist.



I have the same with my bottle, I've changed the fill nipple, tried loctite and PTFE but to no avail. I've also tried a mixture of the two but that worked even worse! Good luck bud, I've just come to accept it now

Paul

Hmmmmm am stuck on the thought of people playing with their nipples

Seriously there is a thing called PTFE paste, it is used in the plumbing world for Gas pipes to prevent problems would highly recommend it

 

[teamxray]

go to a decent plumbers and ask for liquid ptfe made by dow i have used this many times with no leaks after using it great stuff

http://www.selectselect.net/acatalog/Plumba.html

http://www.intek-uk.com/X15-72 TDS.pdf