Now you have to adjust the hammer lug. This is the part that catches the hammer on the sear as the back block travels forward. With the ’98 and later models, there is a hole drilled into the top of the gun that goes all the way through to the bottom of the frame. If you have an earlier model, take it to your local airsmith and have him drill it for you, it will save on the headaches. Two notes, on 98 and later bodies, some of the holes are drilled so that the lug cannot be adjusted with gas in the gun. The hammer has to be pushed a little forward on the valve stem to get the hole to line up with the hammer. Also, there are two types of hammer kits, one (used on pre '98 models) uses a set screw that is adjusted with a 3/32 hex wrench, and the other (98 and later, and some after market hammer kits) needs a 1/8 wrench, so if it feels like the hex key is all the way down, but the lug isn't moving, try the other size wrench.
Now that you have found the lug, the right wrench, you set it so the hammer falls just before the halfway point in the pull. If it drops early, turn the screw in, if it falls late, turn the screw out.
If it doesn't fall at all, it's one of two things. First, the lug is turned so far in that the sear never even sees it, or second, the lug is so far down that the sear can't drop far enough to let go. To find out which way you have to go simply push on the cocking rod. If it feels like its hitting a spring when there is no air in the gun, the lug is too far up, (that's the valve you're pushing on). Just slowly lower the hammer lug until it starts to catch the sear.
If it feels rock hard, with no give, that's the sear you are pushing on, and it's too far out. If its too far out, you have to loosen the two screws on the grip, then pull the trigger, the hammer should let go. If it doesn't, take the grip screws all the way out, and GENTLY move the grip away from the body. If you are too rough, you will bend the 4-way operating rod, and that's not good.
