Matrix LCD upgrade

[arg1271]

This may be one for the boys at spitfire/lucky but someone might have additional input..

Would the X-93 upgrade for a DM3 fit a matrix LCD? internally it all looks the same...

 

[ollgeeze]

I think the lcd is the dm3.

 

[IL=Tim the Yank]

There was a Matrix LCD and a DM3.
The X-93 bolt will fit but you are better off getting one of the older Gold Evolve bolts if you can find one. Lots of people who have tested lots of bolts and bolt upgrade kits say that is the best. There were some problems reported w/ the X-93 too. Go to http://forums.matrixowner.com/index.php and do some searches on bolts.

You can actually make a big improvement on the bolts efficiency by putting some plastic tubing or tape on the Top Hat. Do a search on "Ghetto Top Hat Mod".

 

[arg1271]

I've got the gold bolt in my DM3, just that the bolt in my lcd is getting a bit tired I think and the damn thing leaks air like it's going out of fashion, I've checked and replaced o-rings where I can but it's not helped.

The Dm3 I have trouble getting over 250fps without the bolt sticking forward, I've stripped and lubed it but once again no change. I need to check it out over a chrony as I was running with an HP preset but now have a macdev conquest adjustable reg set around 400psi but still get the bolt stick.

I've exchanged a few posts with John C in regard to servicing both markers which I may do in the new year.

Any other recommendations?

 

[IL=Tim the Yank]

Only thing I can say is check the leak guide on matrixowner. If you can identify where it is, its usually just a matter of replacing the right o-ring. It can be frustrating but that guide is a godsend.

 

[J@mes]

The Dm3 I have trouble getting over 250fps without the bolt sticking

Its your LPR, i had the same problem last week on a DM4 (little brother+allen keys= buggered).

you need to turn your LPR all the way down, and then (with air) turn it back up till it fully fires, then re-chrono you gun and you should be sorted..

-james

 

[arg1271]

done a lot of playing around with the lpr and inline, really need to re-chrono to see if I get closer to 300fps with the new bottle/reg.

 

[J@mes]

done a lot of playing around with the lpr and inline, really need to re-chrono to see if I get closer to 300fps with the new bottle/reg.

it wont have anything to do with your bottle (unless it HP to LP).

i can garentee its your LPR, mine was leaking like a b***h (thro the back of the bolt) and the bolt was sticking forward and wouldnt chrono over 250fps with out that happening, i tryed replacing o-ring, re-lubing, nothing worked, then one of our coaches got hold of it, turned down the LPR all the way down, then back up still it fired fully, then re-chrono'd and all is as it should be. (apprently it was putting about 500 psi thro the NOID )

-james

 

[arg1271]

I have switched from HP to LP. I've had the LPR (the little missle looking thing at the front next to the barrel) would all the way in until I've heard the clicking/snapping sound and then tried to set the inline so that I get 300fps, couldn't get it above 250 without the bolt sticking, though I was on a HP preset at the time.

What's a good input pressure for a dm3? I've got a macdev conquest adjustable that I think I have set around 400psi I'll need to check and confirm this though.

lets set the leaky LCD aside for now....

 

[IL=Tim the Yank]

You need to let the LPR (yes the missile looking thingy at the front) out until the bolt cycles fully (not just until it clicks) before trying to set the inline HPR to get the right FPS. Thats the standard way to do it. Matrixowner suggests a slightly different way but they both will work.

http://forums.matrixowner.com/showthread.php?t=7297

Find your LPR on here and follow the instructions. Mind you these guys are trying to tweak max performance so they get wrapped around the axle sometimes.


You should set your tank input around 450 so you don't get velocity drop off at high rates of fire.