Bolt Stick.
- Thread starter RazorLine
- Start date
Well, I've never thought about it, but going on that, I'm going to say either way round, just not sideways 
I was about to jump in here, but it looks like you guys have it under control
Give me a nudge if you need an extra brain on it
MeDiC no mate, please, jump in. Im a long way from being an expert in anything, but I am logical which gets me byI was about to jump in here, but it looks like you guys have it under control
Give me a nudge if you need an extra brain on it
your help is always appreciated
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I'd be interested to see if the OP knows if the same issue is occurring without paint. Perhaps if they could dry fire with no hopper, look into the breech and see if the bolt seems slow or gets stuck on the return.
As for the check valve, it's located inside the manifold gasket. To access it, remove the bolt guide, fore grip and trigger frame.
Disconnect the solenoid from the eye board and unscrew it and the male air transfer tube from the manifold.
Then remove the 6 or so screws that hold the manifold to the body.
The check valve acts as a choke point for the 200psi as it leaves the solenoid. The narrow point should be facing up as you look at the manifold, facing down as it is with the marker assembled. This slows the air as it enters the poppet giving it chance to build up before releasing the shot.
As for the check valve, it's located inside the manifold gasket. To access it, remove the bolt guide, fore grip and trigger frame.
Disconnect the solenoid from the eye board and unscrew it and the male air transfer tube from the manifold.
Then remove the 6 or so screws that hold the manifold to the body.
The check valve acts as a choke point for the 200psi as it leaves the solenoid. The narrow point should be facing up as you look at the manifold, facing down as it is with the marker assembled. This slows the air as it enters the poppet giving it chance to build up before releasing the shot.
Hi Guys, I hope you don`t mind me coming in on this, But the gun he says was firing ok ?? then it just stopped the way it did, I personally think it`s a simple oversight that shows the same symptoms if not done = have a look at the back cap of the Bolt itself,at the back of the gun, on the allen key adjuster, screw it all the way out, there is an " o " ring there, which needs lubing ,
It gets dry and stops the gun from working.
I`ve found most people that has an Axe didn`t even know it was there, after lubing , I`ve got going every AXE I`ve had back to normal.... or the battery ?? .. bluey
It gets dry and stops the gun from working.
I`ve found most people that has an Axe didn`t even know it was there, after lubing , I`ve got going every AXE I`ve had back to normal.... or the battery ?? .. bluey
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I assume you mean "the back cap of the Bolt guide"? Do you mean the poppet needs lubing?
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I mean , after taking out the Back Cap ( there`s an "O" ring on that ) you`ll see a spring sitting inside a brass bit, That Brass bit is the part I`m talking about, It also has an "O" ring and that is the one that goes un-noticed.
Hey everyone thank you for all the replies, and sorry for the delay in me getting back to you (work and stuff ><)
Following MeDiC 's instruction I can say that my check valve was in the correct place and intact, my thanks for the walkthrough.
Care_Bears I will give this a look into as soon as I get a chance to!
when dry firing the bolt returns quickly and fully, I only seem to have the return issue after a break.
I still havn't been able to get through to a field to try the live fire testing for the dwell.
Following MeDiC 's instruction I can say that my check valve was in the correct place and intact, my thanks for the walkthrough.
Care_Bears I will give this a look into as soon as I get a chance to!
when dry firing the bolt returns quickly and fully, I only seem to have the return issue after a break.
I still havn't been able to get through to a field to try the live fire testing for the dwell.