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Trouble Chronoing

longdeath

Member
Dec 13, 2010
95
11
18
Lancaster
Hi guys, my marker (BT-4 Combat) is struggling to chrono over 200 fps. As much as i turn the screw to change it, it keeps fluxing between 180-220. As far as im aware nothing is wrong with it. Has anyone got any ideas on whats up with it? Thanks, Andy
 

MeDiC

Well-Known Member
Dec 8, 2010
636
231
68
Check to see if air is coming from anywhere it shouldn't be... Most common is cracked powertube, but that might give de-cocking issues as it lets all the excess air used for re-cocking out through the bottom of the marker (equivalent would be the tombstone on a tippy)

Is it clean inside ? If not give it a good strip down, clean, polish the internals (if not done already) and do the tape mod to the cvx valve inside your powertube (again, if not already) and maybe check your spring is ok...

That should be good for you to be getting on with :thumb:
 

longdeath

Member
Dec 13, 2010
95
11
18
Lancaster
Check to see if air is coming from anywhere it shouldn't be... Most common is cracked powertube, but that might give de-cocking issues as it lets all the excess air used for re-cocking out through the bottom of the marker (equivalent would be the tombstone on a tippy)

Is it clean inside ? If not give it a good strip down, clean, polish the internals (if not done already) and do the tape mod to the cvx valve inside your powertube (again, if not already) and maybe check your spring is ok...

That should be good for you to be getting on with :thumb:
And in english please? im quite new to it all. is the power tube the one that goes from the air tank to the marker itself? It is clean inside, i have tried my best to look after the internals. Thanks for the advice, will give me something to do this week
 

MeDiC

Well-Known Member
Dec 8, 2010
636
231
68
hehe, no worries matey.

The powertube is inside your BT4. When you open the marker up you have a black plastic section bolted to one side. That is the powertube, to remove and check it fully, you need to undo two screws on the right hand body shell. If it is damaged it is fairly cheap to replace, but it is worth bearing in mind that you can get an aluminium one to end any future cracking worries.

If you have a look on youtube, there are some good tuts for doing things like the cvx (valve) tape mod and polishing the internals, both of which help efficiency and performance. Some vids go into good detail so you can see every step.

The cvx is the valve inside the powertube, the clearance is quite big between the outer of the cvx and inner of the powertube so a single layer of electrical tape gives a better seal, you must remember to cut the air holes that are on the valve though and don't stretch or overlap the tape.

Polishing the internals is just that, get some wet and dry metal abrasive paper and give the inside of the marker a good seeing to, anywhere there are parts or o-rings etc moving against the inside of the shell. In the factory, during assembly the markers are painted black. this is sprayed on so there is a little overspray, which unfortunately coats the inside of the marker causing unwanted friction. Polishing the internals cuts it down and helps the performance of the marker.
 
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longdeath

Member
Dec 13, 2010
95
11
18
Lancaster
id start with just trying a strip and relube. o and change the battery if it has an egrip (duracell procell are the best)
Its been striped and lubed when i noticed the problem during the last event i was at. Im thinking of getting a parts kit and just doing it all internals with it. see if that helps.