MQ2 Valve

[rob_evanson]

Does your cocker need to be electro to run an MQ2 valve?

Also I've seen some with and without a cocking pin, I'm assuming this is not required as there is no ram.

Finally do you need the solenoid sear with the MQ2 valve?

 

[Shady8688]

1. yes
2. never seen a cocker without a bolt bin. a ram is still required to move the bolt in/out of the breach.
3. no, the mq replaces the full bottom internals. the sear can be removed as is no longer needed

 

[T-T]

2. Assuming you mean the cocking rod, it isn't necessary, but it is recommended. It acts as a guide for the back block and looks better in my eyes.

 

[Gee Tee]

Rob,

When you say cocking pin I think you're describing the cocking rod? That's the bar that hangs out the hammer on full body cockers, and pulled back via rear block to re-c*ck marker?

If so...

You don't need one on an MqQ valved cocker, because there is no hammer. The MQ valve replaces the hammer/poppet valve assembly, and will also make the sear solenoid redundant. The velocity is set via input pressure and dwell on MQ valve, and so needs a board to set timing.

Mid & Half block bodies also don't need a cocking rod. The hammer is operated by a longer bolt pin through a slot in the body. Karni's look like they have no cocking bar but it's actually hidden inside the body. Some guys run MQ's on pumps but these still need a board for timing. The lack of hammer springs makes the pump action really light and fast.

 

[rob_evanson]

Sorry guys, bad terminology. Yes I meant cocking rod, and thanks for the info. The vids I saw were using hybrid electro pump setups and still had the pin in.

 

[Gee Tee]

They leave the cocking rod in there to give back block something to slide on. Otherwise it twists when you re-c*ck a full body pump or semi.

Not sure where this screws into on MQ valved cockers, possibly into the spacer held in by the IVG

 

[Hawkins]

1.Yes

2. On a full body c*cker i'd keep it as a guide ^ If you get the cocker halfblocked then take it out.

3. take it out and keep it you may want to part it out later on and sell the mq2. It makes it easier to feed the wires into the board without it and it weighs alot

When installing the mq and taking it out you must MUST put an allen key in the housing to stop it twisting other wise the valve will turn as you tighted up the IVG and youll cut the wires off.. Also dont over tigheten it when installing just nip it tight it doesnt have to be He-man tight or youll crush the poppet..

 

[Gee Tee]

..and nobody likes to have thier poppets crushed :bawling:

 

[rob_evanson]

..and nobody likes to have thier poppets crushed :bawling:

Indeed, sounds very painful!

 

[WihGlah]

1.Yes
When installing the mq and taking it out you must MUST put an allen key in the housing to stop it twisting other wise the valve will turn as you tighted up the IVG and youll cut the wires off.. Also dont over tigheten it when installing just nip it tight it doesnt have to be He-man tight or youll crush the poppet..

I thread the wire through a piece of macroline tube and push the macroline into the slot in the poppet housing.

Doesn't need a hand to hold it an prevents damage to the housing.