Shocker solenoid prob

[the 1]

Ok so I have a shocker that has a wicked air sportz(AKA Viking/Excalibur) board it worked fine untill the solenoid broke. So I orderd a new one form smart parts. But now the solenoid wont “click” so I did some checks:

Is the board outputting current yes
Does the solenoid click when higher voltage is applied? Yes
Did the old one work yes!!!

So what the hell is the problem?

 

[FrontManDan]

Are you talking about a shoebox shocker? as im not aware that there is a WAS for a 2003+ shocker

Does the old noid still click when connected to the board (prove the wiring)

if it does you could:

Dismantle the new noid and swap the coil with the coil from the old noid (noids are usually modular, i have not seen a shoebox shocker noid though), presuming that the coil wasnt the problem with the original noid.

Also check the connections on the board as you there would have been a cirtain amount of messing with the wiring when installing the new noid, a bad connection on the board could cause a high resistance or a dis which would starve the noid of power.

If you have a 2003 shocker with a timmy board conversion i would be inclined to think that there will be a break in the harness somewhere depending on how well the conversion was done.

 

[FrontManDan]

how did you prove the board was outputting power out of interest?

 

[Bob]

As Mr Dan said is it a shoe box? they have 2 niods which one doesn't work?

Is it a W.A.S board from a AKA Viking/Excalibur or a specific shocker one?

What voltage did the solanoid click at?

 

[the 1]

Its a new style shocker.

I proved the board was outputting current by putting the two wires on my tongue and puling the trigger

As far as I can tell all the connections work fine. Maybe they have upped the voltage requirement on the noid?

The board insnt designed to work in a shocker its a AKA Viking/Excalibur one but it has worked in the passed so...

 

[FrontManDan]

Some selonoids are polorized, switch the wires round and see if that helps.

I seriously doubt there is an issue with the noid itself as it is new and i presume smart parts test them before dispatch , but it would be a good idea to switch the noids back again to fully rule out the board and the wiring before you post next so i can better advize you.

if you fix it let us know what was the matter with it

 

[the 1]

Thank you for the advice so far I have tried swapping the wires to no avail. I (stupidly) got rid of the old noid
But I connected it to a dm3’s noid and it click but not very loudly

 

[FrontManDan]

This is all getting a bit ghetto for me :s

Im presuming that when u say it clicks not very loudly, it isnt as loud as it would normally click (if you could rig it to actually fire any marker with gas and ball that would be good)?


Im thinking its a problem with the board or the wiring. How well is the conversion been done.

Has the eye & the power harness been soldered directly to the board, or are the original connectors still being used.

 

[FrontManDan]

pm'ed u

 

[Skeet]

Tried a new battery?
How about Dwell..maybe the board is using too short a dwell fo rthe new noid, so teh pulse isnt sufficient to full cycle teh noid.