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Newbies FAQ/Useful Info

Rosie

Well-Known Member
Aug 30, 2002
1,677
5
63
Nottingham
Right!!!!
I haven't finished it yet, done most of it but not everything. I'm looking at doing a complete sticky as I'm a waster & I've got far too much time...;)

How's this for starters, as an improvement on one recently posted up. PLEASE, tell me if anything's wrong or anything needs adding. -Spelling mistakes, anything.

PS with regards to marker prices, the prices I put up are mostly second hand, I need some help with finding the NEW prices for most of them. -The internet filter's being arsey at college & blocking everything related as 'weapons' :confused:.

I need to do a masks section, & put something down about tourneys maybes, and put the new prices for markers up, *work in progress* :D.



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Okay you are a new player or you probably wouldn't be reading this. I'm going to help you as much as possible in choosing what you should buy.


Commitment
What is your level of commitment to playing paintball? If you have rented or been and loaned a gun and played a few times this is the best place to start.
There are differing levels of commitment:
  • ‘punter’ recball in the woods, where you borrow kit.
  • Walk-on days (where you use your own kit)/Scenario games eg the Big
  • Game/Stargate, etc
  • Woodsball Tournaments
Some players stop in the woods, as that’s the kind of gameplay they enjoy, eg: they enjoy the ‘tactics’ and the sneaking/sniping in the woods :).

There is another route though, called Super Air (or Sup’ Air), which is played on flat grass pitches, with inflatables instead of bunkers.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Mini-100_2620.JPG

A lot of info and some definitions can be found here.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paintball
Some more definitions here (PM me if you have anything not mentioned here, you want me to explain)
http://www.icdpaintball.com/icd05/glossary.asp
http://paintball.about.com/od/glossary/
And this is some general info for new players: http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=1093605

This comes at several different commitment levels as well:
  • Training- where you just set up a field and play casual games against your own team, or another team.
  • Local/regional tournaments such as the UK Masters, NSPL etc. –In these there are divisions ranging from King of The Hill (new players div), to Division 1 (highest division, for experienced teams).
  • Large UK events such as the Welsh Open (part of the Uk Masters)
  • International events, - the Millennium Series, the NPPL, the NXL, PSP.

Money
Paintball is not a cheap sport to play, by any stretch of the imagination. If you are not gonna be playing fairly often (once a month or every other month is a good figure to start from) then why buy?
Make sure you’ve hired kit a few times, and you’re certain you’ll have the money/dedication to justify buying the kit you’ll have bought. There’s no rush to run out and buy your own kit! Make sure the sport’s for you before you move onto the next level.

When you’ve caught the bug (I have no doubt it’ll hit you soon enough ;)) & you’ve decided you really want to play paintball more often, it will be the time to buy your own gun. Money is now the issue. If you are on a budget like many people will be, reading this, then this could be quite helpful. If money all but grows on a tree in your backyard well reading on will not hurt either ;).

For a first marker, there is the choice between getting a cheap, ‘low end’ (basically less technical) marker first, and upgrading afterwards, or saving up, and getting a relatively mid-high end marker.

Here is a labelled marker (not very clear...I'll probably do it again). It's an ego, mmm!
http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h84/92rt095/untitled-4.jpg

I will be honest in that I don’t know the new prices for most of these markers, but I have put the second hand price next to some, that I know of.

Low End Markers £20-£70
There are many cheap markers available, which are equal to and better than the site markers you use.
Common site markers are Infernos, Spyders, Automags and Tippmann 98’s.
These are really cheap second hand, and while you might not get much of an advantage over other site players, you be able to get used to taking apart and maintaining your own marker, and learn the basic parts. A mechanical cocker would also not be a bad first marker- very upgradeable!
Most low-end markers will run on C02 bottles, which your local site will fill for you.
These do not have ‘e-grips’ ie, aren’t electronic, these are mechanical markers, and very slow compared to the next tier of markers.

I would comment that it might not be a good idea to buy a low-end marker new, as their resale value is very low; buy second hand- often their condition is quite good!

Upgrades:
For the low end markers there are a few upgrades you can buy, or even perform yourself when you are confident.
General upgrades include: barrel, bolt, feedneck, gripframe (and trigger), and grips.

Spyder Upgrades
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=869360

Tippmann Upgrades
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=868523

These markers would be ok to use at a rec-ball, or Walk-on level. When you feel you’re being outgunned, or your marker is holding back your progression, it’s time to move on to:

Mid Markers £70-£200
There are SOOOOooo many markers around now, so I will start with the most common. These would be excellent at rec-ball or walk-on level, and would do at entry tournament level.
Some run on C02, but most will run much more efficiently on HPA (High Pressure Air).

It goes without saying. The new ‘must have’ starter marker is the
Smart Parts ion.
This is a reliable, practical, and light marker. –For what you get, the price is great. I would recommend this as a first marker- pretty simple to use when it’s been explained to you, and will keep up with higher end markers some £100s more expensive. This can also be upgraded pretty easily to match any high end marker.
Upgrades available: barrel, feedneck, bolt, trigger, new eyes, DM membrane mod, QEV/banjo/internal fittings, board, body kit, regulator. £155 new, £100 odd 2nd hand but good condition.
There aren’t many parts, so are relatively easy to maintain (lube, clean)

There are too many markers to explain, so I will broadly list and explain the next batch:
Impulse, shocker, intimidator (or Timmy), old Matrix (DM3). Roughly £100 2nd hand.
Not all that dissimilar; My first tourney marker was an impulse, and it was very easy to maintain (even for a technophobe like I was then). –Practical, durable and just real workhorses, you can drop them in a puddle & shoot through breaks with few problems. These are air powered markers – High Pressure. They are fairly fast (faster than mech markers), and upgradeable, just maybe a little heavy. A lot of the modern technology on newer markers you can retro-fit to older markers, including eyes, feednecks etc.
Upgrades: as above- there are many upgrades available! You can keep it stock or upgrade it as far as it will go- the body itself being the only real impediment.
Shockers in particular in this bracket can be upgraded to be a v. high end marker.

Angel’s from LCD/IR3 (all preceding were High Pressure, all Angels after are Low Pressure)/A4/04 Speed/Euro
These are a good price second hand from a buyers perspective right now, as they have fallen in price due to a new type being designed every year :).
They require the least maintenance of any marker I have ever owned; the new bolts are self-lubricating, so all you have to do is clean and lube the hammer once in a while.
I am biased because I really like Angels, & I think they’re a good starter tourney marker. Price second hand depending on model can be from £70 to £180.
Upgrades: again, many, barrel kit, feedneck, board, Spitfire Mod (new eyes & board- brings all angels up to speed with newest technology), other aftermarket boards, trigger frames, regulators, the Newton or Evolve kit (same thing different name- increases gas efficiency a LOT)

Cockers
Cockers come in all of these brackets as they are so customiseable, you can get them in varying degrees from mech to a Karnivore; which a top pro team uses.
An E1/E2 cocker would come into this bracket. –MANY aftermarket parts available, and many DIY mods you can do as well, from midgitizing to no-blocking, a lot is possible with these markers, and at the moment they are very cheap second hand.

High End Markers £200-£1000
From cheap-ish, to more expensive.
Remember this about the cheaper (but still high end!! Markers) the factor in the success in use of most of these markers is the user themselves. –If you can physically move your fingers at 15bps, you will be able to do that on a DM, an Ego, an Angel or an Etek. All the markers in this bracket can compete against each other in terms of speed, but you are now spending money on lightness, customiseability (is that a word :)?) and the ability to high-tune, and looks/style/shiny knightrider lights.

Angels: 05 Speed/G7 £200-£300
These are cheap markers- as before with the older angels, real work horses. –Efficient and little to maintain, and also cheap!
I’ve had an 05 Speed for almost 2 years & I’ve never had to take the back off it! Never had to service the mini-reg! It’s gas efficient and consistent over the chrono, can shoot through breaks, and you clean it at the end of the day, occasionally change the battery and you’re done, chuck it in the bag to play another day.
Comes without asa, good improvements would be feedneck, barrel kit, Evolve/Newton kit, maybe Spitfire board or Tadao board.

06 Speed/G7 Fly £300-?
As above, but these are more expensive, being the newer models. They boast BETTER gas consistency, and just generally a curvier shape, and lighter.
Comes without asa, needs new feedneck, barrel kit…that’s about it.

Etek (£475ish new from Planet)
VERY high quality cheaper version of the ego, I’ve heard good things about this. –This is like how the ion is to the shocker (except it’s better obviously, that’s not meant as a slur!)
It is a genuinely much cheaper version of the ego with similar perfomance (though it has lost the screen and QEV).
A barrel kit and bolt upgrade is adviseable, & maybe a q-lock feedneck. Still a v new marker so we shall se what comes along to improve it further!
Takes cocker threads!

Angel 1 £695
New Angel. I can’t think of any possible upgrades, yet! Everything you could need….already comes with the marker (3-bore barrel kit, toolkit, clamping feedneck, asa etc).

Bob Long Intimidators or ‘Timmys’
ICD/ Indian Creek/Promaster

Not much experience with these myself, but they are fast and good guns. I have heard some say they are high maintenance, but I know them to be high performers, and really quick.
Very customiseable, and there are many aftermarket parts.

High end Shockers
Dynasty, the TonTons, Naughty Dogs, Russian Legion all use these markers. They appear to be making a comeback in fashion. Popular markers. Not as easy to maintain as some, and some can have efficiency problems if not maintained properly, but looked after these markers are fast, light and look great.
Many, many upgrades ;).

Dye matrix (£750 new) / Proto matrix (£500 new)
They are awesome guns; fast and much lighter than their earlier counterparts.
Upgrades to the board are popular, and barrels are available. There is also a trigger frame available- the Ultralight frame, which is really popular. The evolve bolt can be used to good effect on these markers, to increase efficiency.
These are the same line of marker, really like the e-tek is to the ego. The PM is a nice marker, v reliable. The DM is it’s big performance brother with better looks.
Neither are ‘easy’ to maintain, but you’ll learn easily enough, it isn’t rocket science. –All of these markers may seem complicated enough to begin with but with help from the manual & people on these boards you can ask anything of, there isn’t anything you can’t fix. –there will always be someone who can help.

Planet Eclipse- Ego: £1000
These are said to be the cream of the crop and are in fashion at the moment- on every field you see, there’ll be someone shooting an ego.
They are performance markers, very customiseable; every upgrade under the sun you could think of is available, from knightrider boards to barrel kits to new contrast-colour kits to bling you up. I have heard good things about the 'Lucky' kit which aims to do the same as the evolve kit on an Angel.
Also, many people have upgraded their stock frames to a 'Star Frame' and star trigger.

The ego takes cocker threads, what a blessing!!!
Fast, light and good looking. The ‘dark’ version even has a beer opener…:)
 

Rosie

Well-Known Member
Aug 30, 2002
1,677
5
63
Nottingham
Loaders:
There are a range of hoppers to suit your marker speed, and of different looks. From Low->High spec.
No/Low Spec
Gravity Hopper
9V Revolution or ‘Revvy’
9V Reloader sound activated
Ricochet
Higher Spec- Good for tourneys or competitions
Halo TSA frontman/backman
Egg, Y-Board
Egg, Z-Board (faster board)
Halo B (eyes)
Highest Spec The best you can get ;).
Halo Z-code/V35/Cheetah/Angry (types of upgrade board)
Reloader B (sound activated)
V-Locity

Masks
Before you buy a mask, here are a few things to consider:
(taken from www.paintball.about.com)

You can play paintball without a gun (make a run for that flag!), you can play without balls (fire away; the sound might fool your opponent), but you CANNOT play without a mask (aka googles). Here are some things to keep in mind before you buy this most important of paintball equipment.
Paintball. Period.
If you are going to play paintball, you need to use a paintball mask. Not sunglasses, ski goggles, safety goggles, shooting glasses, or anything else. Paintball masks are made for the sport and must meet strict industry standards. Nothing else is specifically made to withstand the impact of a paintball going at over 270 mph.

Peripheral Vision
Paintball lenses are larger, and thus offer much more peripheral vision than most other goggles. Try on your mask and make sure you can see out of the corner of your eye. In a game, this could save you from being shot by a player moving up on you.

For Four-Eyes
If you wear glasses, make sure your mask fits comfortably over them. You shouldn’t have a problem finding a mask that works for you. There's a good chance either your lens or glasses will fog, though, so be sure to buy thermal and maybe even invest in a mask fan.

Buy Thermal
The last thing you want is your lens fogging during a game. Thermal lenses (which are actually two lens panes with a tiny pocket of air between them) prevent that from happening. Some masks say anti-fog, but are actually just single lenses with an anti-fog coating on them. This is better than nothing, but the anti-fog film will eventually wash away.

Ear Protection
A paintball in the ear is almost as scary as one to the eye. Make sure the mask you buy covers your ear completely and comfortably. But you shouldn’t have to give up sound quality for safety. With the mask on, rub your thumb and index finger together next to the ear flap. If you can’t hear anything, keep on looking!

Face Shield
A good face shield is critical. You want a mask with a large, flexible face shield that protects your nose, mouth, and chin while allowing you to breath and talk clearly. (Note: Just because your mask comes down to your chin doesn’t mean you can’t get a mouth full of paint. Relax! It tastes awful, but it’s completely safe.)

Visors
A good visor will keep the sun out of your eyes, rain out of your face, and paint from dripping inside your mask. Make sure the visor is somewhat flexible. You might also want to wear a bandana or backwards baseball cap under your mask.

Good Fit
You’re going to be running, crawling, jumping and sliding - not to mention shooting - with this thing on. You want to make sure the mask is comfortable and secure. Look for lots of padding around the lens and a wide adjustable strap. If you plan on wearing a baseball cap or anything else on your head, make sure it fits under your mask.

*Mask section to be continued*


Bottles

There are two types of propellant commonly used on markers.
One new Tippmann can use propane, but all other markers use either C02 (this is what you will use at a Rec Ball site), or HPA (High Pressure Air).

C02 bottles come in a range of different sizes, and are fillable at your local site. C02 is seen as a 'dirty' gas, and infact isn't good for most markers. Most low-spec markers are run on C02, eg Infernos, Tippmann 98's etc, however no high-end markers are, as it ruins their seals.

The highest performance markers are run on Air.
Air bottles, depending on their output pressure are termed either High Pressure (HP) or Low Pressure (LP). Some bottle reg's are adjustable, so you can use them on any marker.
-It is the input pressure a marker takes, which determines which bottle you use.

Most markers now use HP air, -only the angels after the IR3 use LP.
There are several different sizes of air bottle, and combination of pressure.

There is some really good info on bottles and loads of other stuff in this tech/FAQ sticky in Techroom.
http://www.p8ntballer-forums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=28216

The Low, on Ups.

Barrels/Barrel Kit
This is one of the most important upgrades- it should be the first thing you do, as this is one variable that can directly affect accuracy.

Barrels come in ‘bore’ sizes, to match the gauge of paint you’re shooting. –Paint accuracy is based on a number of factors, -paint to barrel match is one.
Some people just buy one barrel, to upgrade their stock one, and the common bores range from 6.88 to 6.65. Paint is generally within this range, & if it isn’t, then yo got beef with your paint supplier :).
If you only get one barrel I would recommend .88 for good accuracy, though if you get bigger paint than this you will break paint in the barrel, or .92, - most paint will go through a .92 accurately enough, & it’s what I use all the time, unless the paint is a drastically different size.

If you buy a one-piece barrel, there are many types- you have to be careful of quality. The best brands in my mind are Dye (ultralight, Boomstick), CP (custom products), or the Stiffy barrel (made of carbon fibre).

There are two types of barrel kit. There is the type where you have one back to fit your marker, which you can put different sleeves, or ‘inserts’ into, to match your paint size. The Freak Kit from Smart Parts is a good example of this type.

The other type is the multi-back barrel kit, where you have a range of actual backs, which you change, not just the insert. –I have one of these, as though they are bulkier to store, they aren’t as prone to being dented as the freak inserts, and you can lend another back to a team mate, whereas with the freak, you’d have to buy another back. The Redz Pepper Stick set is a good quality example of this, or the Evil Pipe Kit.

With both of these kits you get the back, which attaches to your marker, and a ‘front’ of varying sizes, which screws on to make a complete barrel.

There are a range of different sized barrels, from 3” ‘flashpoints’ to 18” ‘sniper’ barrels. The average range is between 12”-14”. 3” does not allow for enough acceleration and guidance of the ball, and you would definitely find that both your accuracy and gas efficiency would suffer.
18” is in fact too long, and anything after around 10” will not really affect accuracy very much.

Robbo said:
I would think the accuracy of any paintball shot in lab conditions (no wind) would be something like: -
96% down to the paintball
2% down to the propulsion (valve mech)
2% down to the barrel

These are approximations to give an idea of the relative influences on the accuracy of a paintball and are certainly not meant to be definitive.
Barrel size is really totally up to you!

Feedneck
The Clamping feedneck is a common upgrade, and makes the difference between being able to switch hoppers between games or not, and whether your loader comes flying off when you dive headfirst into that snake, or is held secure.
One of the most common is the Q-Lock; you will want a cam-lock feedneck if possible, not twist-clamping, aside from that they are all pretty similar!

Trigger/Trigger Frame
These are a good upgrade when you’ve really got to grips with your marker.
It is common to just buy an aftermarket trigger (Ollgeeze on these boards makes good delrin triggers, PM him), and companies such as CP make some good ones. The choice is totally up to you and what trigger you choose depends on what trigger walking style works best for you.

Trigger frames are a good way to make a pretty dramatic change to your marker’s handling feel. –They are expensive, but can give a cheaper marker the handling feel of a much more expensive one (eg ions).
Common trigger frame upgrades are done on the ego (star frame), DM/PM (Ultralight frame), Cocker (mech->electro). There is a frame upgrade for the LCD angel also.

Internals Kits
Evolve/Newton- many markers, including shocker, Angel, and DM/PM.
Lucky- Ego

Both of these kits are designed to improve gas efficiency and chrono consistency, and I have heard very good things about both.

(I need some more info on kits; if anyone has some/could write some could they put them up please, thanks :))

ASA/ On/Off
When you buy a marker without an on/off asa, where you screw your gas into, then you need to get one. Constantly screwing in and un-screwing pressurised air puts massive strain on the threads of both the reg and the asa, and it has been known for the non on/off asa to seize on an air bottle’s reg, and cause unrepairable damage.

Board
There are a wide range of upgrade boards available for every marker. Even the spyder has an upgrade board! (the T-Board)

Boards can increase the customiseability of the marker, and allow the user to put in their own settings, where maybe sometimes they couldn’t before.
New firing modes eg: ramping, are available on aftermarket boards, and there is some stigma associated with them in that sometimes they are used to increase the ability of the marker to be able to cheat (ie: using parabolic ramping, or a ‘breakout mode’).
However, not everyone uses aftermarket boards to cheat.
Boards ‘smooth out’ ropes of paint, and lessen the ‘stuttering’ effect, but unless you programme it to do so, it will not make the marker faster. –That is limited by your fingers ;).

The most common board at the moment is the Virtue board. This is a board made for most different markers now, but not all.
http://www.virtuepaintball.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.catalog&categoryID=190

The next is the tadao. This also is made for a number of markers, but less than virtue. The DM range (Musashi chips, Stomp board, etc) of tadao is widely used and I have heard a lot of good things.

Aesthetics, eg: Grips
Now…this isn’t really performance related but hey, you want your marker to look the best it can right? :)
Grips are really common now, and cheap. Dye do a good range of ‘sticky grips’, and Hybrid do a range of grips for many markers.

Contrast colour kits for the ego are everywhere now- if you buy an ego, you can change the feedneck, asa/purge, reg and eye covers to match. If you go on the classifieds section of this board and put up a thread asking to trade your CCU kit, you might be able to find the colour you need. Or Planet Eclipse sell them ;).
 

newboy

Down but not out.
Feb 15, 2006
587
0
41
49
Hereford
Visit site
:) :) nice one! Will be nice for the new people on the boards to read through.Lots of usefull info .Iam sure some people visit the boards and dont register, so dont have a chance to ask the kind of questions you have covered.good work :cool:
N
 

Game

Doing men things to men in the woods atm
Nov 21, 2004
2,539
190
98
Dereham,Norfolk
realy nice info you should put a link to your invision lens changing guide in the goggles section