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Newbie Cocker Question...

Conman

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Nov 12, 2002
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Hey All --

I'm new to paintball...I just played for the first time a couple of weeks ago.

Anyhow, I'm interested in buying a marker and have decided to go the cocker route...I'm not sure I need the speed of an electro (had a chance to play with and Angel and Intimidator my first time out) and really like the idea of upgrading as I get better and tinkering with stuff. So, here are my questions

1) Would I be better off going for a WGP stock Autococker 2003 and upgrading or start completely from scratch? Or maybe something else?

2) Do all after market parts advertised for cockers fit on ALL late model cockers? Or in other words how to you know what parts will work with what guns...just following magazines and web sites?

3) If I was to go with the WGP stock Autococker what would be your first recommended upgrades.

Thanks for putting up with yet another newbie. I appreciate any advice you all have to offer.

Jeff
 

Micah

New Member
Originally posted by Conman
Hey All --

I'm new to paintball...I just played for the first time a couple of weeks ago.

Anyhow, I'm interested in buying a marker and have decided to go the cocker route...I'm not sure I need the speed of an electro (had a chance to play with and Angel and Intimidator my first time out) and really like the idea of upgrading as I get better and tinkering with stuff. So, here are my questions

1) Would I be better off going for a WGP stock Autococker 2003 and upgrading or start completely from scratch? Or maybe something else?

2) Do all after market parts advertised for cockers fit on ALL late model cockers? Or in other words how to you know what parts will work with what guns...just following magazines and web sites?

3) If I was to go with the WGP stock Autococker what would be your first recommended upgrades.

Thanks for putting up with yet another newbie. I appreciate any advice you all have to offer.

Jeff
(1) If you plan on upgrading it, a stock 'cocker would be the best way to go. That way, you can change what you want to change when you want to change it and you don't have to worry about already having spent a large sum of money on aftermarket parts that you don't like.

(2) All aftermarket parts will fit on all cockers with the exception of bolts. There are bolts for Pre2k cockers 2k+ cockers, and Evo and similar cockers. The same is true for ASA's and front blocks. Other than that, 99.9% of all aftermarket parts will fit onto a new cocker. These parts for older cockers or specialty cockers are usually noted, but it is best to ask first just to be 100% sure. Better safe than sorry I think.

(3) The first thing I would get for a new cocker is a new barrel, an electro loader, and ... well, that's all you need, new cockers are good to go out of the box.

After that (and after yiou have spent a day learing the ins and outs of learing how to time and re time a cocker - Which is a must if you want to avoid any and all possible cocker problems) Then I would buy a Valve tool and a Spring kit (under $20 total) Then you might want to buy an adjustable reg such as a Palmers Stab. an AKA Sidewinder, or a WGP ERGO reg (or black magic, those 2 are the same reg, which is also the same as the stock, only adjustable) The stock reg is great but a pain to adjust. using the spring kit and the valve tool you'll be able fine tune your operating pressure and get more shots per fill.

Now at this point you may need to adjust your recock pressure so the easiest thing to do would be to buy an adjustable LPR, suck as a palmers Rock or a WGP Tickler. You use this to adjust how much force is used to recock your 'gun.

After that, just change out what you don't like. Want a shorter trigger pull? You could buy a new frame with trigger stops, I like Benchmark, great finish and it's pre tapped for trigger stops. You could buy a roller sear kit such as the one Extreme rage makes, expensive, but the best one out. and you could buy a shorter 3-way. The shortest right now are the Bomb from shocktech, the P.M.P. From DYE, and the new adjustable one from WGP.

Don't let anyone try to sell you a new bolt tho, The stock bolt is the second highest flowing bolt on the market, and the best deal (comes with the 'gun so it's free) The highest being the AKA lightining, and the only reason I bought that one was that I found it in delrin. That and my stock bolt was getting a bit chewed from the ball detent (this isn't really a problem anymore because the new stock bolts have a grove in them to prevent wear from the detent)

When buying the stock autococker, I would go for the center feed over the right feed. The balance is better it looks cooler and you don't need to worry about breaking elbows. So will tell you it feeds faster too, but really, it's not enough to make a noticable difference.

I think I've covered most of the angle, feel free to Email me with any questions you might have.

-Micah

mcmski@adelphia.net
 
Dec 23, 2001
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if ya wanna buy a marker that will work out of the box, then the cocker is a good one.

You can buy a prebuilt cocker (with numerous after market upgrades) but its pricey.
where are you from? i know that Planet sell the Outcast cocker (ask jeevus about how sweet it is) which is not that much more expensive than the stock cocker, but comes with better pnumatics on the front (nice shiny silver STO ram, 3 way, & LPR), a shiny curvy body, and an ergo reg. You then have a fine marker.

you could just buy a stock one, whack in a Rex Dialer kit, as this makes it far easier to chrony, and then you can loctite the cocking pin, (a definate good thing, because that coming loose can stop your marker working mid game.)
chuck a revvy ontop, then look at a new barrel.

Beyond that, the longer you have the cocker, the more youll decide what you want to do with it. Play with other peoples, and then see if the shiny bit they have on theirs is any better than the shiny bit on yours. :)

i know Micah said most of this, but even i found it hard reading, and i know what he's talking about. :D
 

Micah

New Member
Originally posted by Billy No Mates
i know Micah said most of this, but even i found it hard reading, and i know what he's talking about. :D
Yeah .. that's why Ant wont let me be a Tech writer I think ... I should have come up with some sort of extended car metaphore :D :D :D

Le-pig The back block on the 2k and newer cockers is thinner. The body length is the same. So what I would say to you, if you can't figure out which you have, buy a 2k or newer one, if it doesnt fit, return it or buy a shiney new back block. Seriously tho, you have no reason to replace the stock bolt. It's #2 in my book, definatly top 3 with out question. My opinion of course ...

-Micah
 

Tony

Dead Hellfish
Jul 7, 2001
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Everyone seems to have covered everything, so all I can do it back up what Billy said. One of our team has just bought an Outkast, and it's amazing for the money you pay. Not really all that much more than a stock, and it's pretty souped up already.
 
Dec 23, 2001
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ill also add that the STO front pnumatics are well in the top 2 in my book (beaten only be Belsales 38 special ram, and Hollowpoint 3-way) for reliability and usability. You can get faster smarter bits, but at the price, they are sweet.
Have you seen how small the LPR is???
 

jeevusmaximus

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Jan 12, 2002
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Tony, what colour is your team mates outkast?
The only problem I had with my outkast was when I changed the bolt to a Belsales delrin. It was a millimetre longer so I chopped a ball but Billy adjusted it and it has been sweet for the near 2 months I have had it.
Also, if you can't get hold of one, a stock cocker will work perfectly fine. All you need is a new barrel, revvy or other motorised hopper and off you go.

Good luck choosing!