ok so i was bored had access to power tools and decided to convert my spare halo to rip drive- for free!
At this point i will say if you do this and screw up your halo- well i'm afraid thats tough luck and you should of bought the genuine rip drive kit
You will need
a bolt approx 1" long
a knob ( to be the rip drive) that you can fix to the head end of the bolt- i used a revi paddle with the arms trimmed off
a drill and drill bits
steady vice like grip - or an actual vice
loctite
completely dissasemble your halo so that you have full access to the axle that the drive cone screws onto- you will need to remove the drive cone, the spring under it and the plastic tray the spring sits in.
Turn catch cup over and unscrew the three screws securing the cover that covers the gears and belt- remove smaller gear and belt - put in a very safe place.
what you should be left with is the axle held in place by a 'c' clip and the big gear wheel underneath the catch cup- you need to pop this 'c' clip off to release the axle and slide the gear wheel off- you should now have the axle completely free from the other parts.
clamp the axle and drill and tap this to take a bolt of approximately 1" long - i used a 3mm 0.5mm x 30mm pan headed slotted bolt- that i found!
now put axle back in catch cup - attach big gear and 'c' clip to hold axle in place- offer catch cup up to shells to show where you will need to make a hole in the shells for the rip drive to protrude.
make holes in shells- carefull now, you may want a grown up to help
now take the cover that screws onto the bottom of the catch cup covering the gears - on the inside face should be a ball bearing race sitting in a recess- you now need to drill a hole in this cover in the center of the recess- the same size as the gap in center of the ball bearing race- any bigger and you risk the bearing race falling through- any smaller and your new axle extension might rub causing friction and slowing down your halo.
now rebuild and screw all the catch cup assembly back together all that should be different is you can now see the bottom of the axle that you drilled and tapped through the hole in the cover on the bottom of the catch cup.
rebuild halo, remembering to put tension on the dive cone- you should now be able to see the drilled and tapped axle through the hole in the shells.
Take the bolt and screw it into the axle- fit your rip drive knob onto the end of the bolt.
i used 2 nuts to lock the revi paddle (knob) in place- meaning the slotted head is still exposed so i can dissasemble fully if i ever need to.
once you've checked it's all spinning how it should- loctite the bolt into the bottom of the axle- job done
here are some photos
Ask questions on here- but if you really are confused- i reccomend just shelling out for the rip drive kit
A.B
At this point i will say if you do this and screw up your halo- well i'm afraid thats tough luck and you should of bought the genuine rip drive kit
You will need
a bolt approx 1" long
a knob ( to be the rip drive) that you can fix to the head end of the bolt- i used a revi paddle with the arms trimmed off
a drill and drill bits
steady vice like grip - or an actual vice
loctite
completely dissasemble your halo so that you have full access to the axle that the drive cone screws onto- you will need to remove the drive cone, the spring under it and the plastic tray the spring sits in.
Turn catch cup over and unscrew the three screws securing the cover that covers the gears and belt- remove smaller gear and belt - put in a very safe place.
what you should be left with is the axle held in place by a 'c' clip and the big gear wheel underneath the catch cup- you need to pop this 'c' clip off to release the axle and slide the gear wheel off- you should now have the axle completely free from the other parts.
clamp the axle and drill and tap this to take a bolt of approximately 1" long - i used a 3mm 0.5mm x 30mm pan headed slotted bolt- that i found!
now put axle back in catch cup - attach big gear and 'c' clip to hold axle in place- offer catch cup up to shells to show where you will need to make a hole in the shells for the rip drive to protrude.
make holes in shells- carefull now, you may want a grown up to help
now take the cover that screws onto the bottom of the catch cup covering the gears - on the inside face should be a ball bearing race sitting in a recess- you now need to drill a hole in this cover in the center of the recess- the same size as the gap in center of the ball bearing race- any bigger and you risk the bearing race falling through- any smaller and your new axle extension might rub causing friction and slowing down your halo.
now rebuild and screw all the catch cup assembly back together all that should be different is you can now see the bottom of the axle that you drilled and tapped through the hole in the cover on the bottom of the catch cup.
rebuild halo, remembering to put tension on the dive cone- you should now be able to see the drilled and tapped axle through the hole in the shells.
Take the bolt and screw it into the axle- fit your rip drive knob onto the end of the bolt.
i used 2 nuts to lock the revi paddle (knob) in place- meaning the slotted head is still exposed so i can dissasemble fully if i ever need to.
once you've checked it's all spinning how it should- loctite the bolt into the bottom of the axle- job done
here are some photos
Ask questions on here- but if you really are confused- i reccomend just shelling out for the rip drive kit
A.B
