jt excellerator 6.0

[tom9]

do any of you own this model of marker
what problems have you encountered if any
what setup are you using with your excellerator

please advise on a different well priced marker if you believe this model is not up to standards

thanks

tom

 

[Bloody American]

Well,
This is only my two pence, but...
From what I can tell, this is JT's attempt at a "tourney-grade" marker. I'm so pissed off at that phrase at this point, though, as it seems that ****ing manufacturers have forgotten what that means. People release spyder clones left and right and then say things like..."At last...a tourney grade marker, made entirely out of plastic, assembled in taiwan that EVERYONE CAN AFFORD!!!!112!2"124444444" They seem to think that labelling a marker tourney grade makes it tourney grade. From what I've seen, these markers haven't cought on. Not even a little. JT has decided to go into unfamiliar waters and is trying to make paintguns...I think they would have been better off sticking to gear and goggles. But whatever. All I'm saying is, this marker has been out at least a year. I haven't seen a single one at the field I work at. I haven't seen a single one on the tourney scene. I haven't heard anything good about them yet on these boards (though I haven't looked for it specifically). I think if it was a better gun, then people would be using it, and, more importantly, defending it, don't you?
I say, steer clear of these and make up your mind as to what you're looking for in a gun. If you want a cheap-ish open bolt blow-back, then go off, get a spyder/tippman/whatever, and be happy with it. If you want a TRUE tourney marker, then suck it up, save your cash, and be prepared to dish out quite a bit for a proper electro. If you want a happy medium, get an autococker, mag, or electro secondhand...Prices go way, way down, and you can find some excellent buys.
-Mike

 

[L J]

this is where.....

i point you to my thread

http://www.p8ntballer-forums.com/vb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=20932

autococker with evolution internals, just been serviced by belsales, all o rings replaced and looked over, re timed, rex kit fitted (read the thread), comes with a freak barrel, revvy hopper, and a 3000psi 1.9l air system, check it out

 

[tom9]

cockersrule offer

do you have pictures
can u send them to me at tombickley9@hotmail.com

then i will continue negotiations! haha lol

thanks

tom

 

[L J]

ive got a pic of the gun minus the air system and revvy
the air system is being serviced, but i will have back in just over a week, so ill just take some pics of the gun

 

[L J]

ok, ive sent them (sorry about the size), basically when the air system is on there, there will be a small black foregrip ojust below the gold bit, connected to a black cradle under the trigger, with a 1.9l bottle on it

 

[tom9]

thanks

i will await your email
thanks again
anyway im only a sorta beginner
do you think handling and maintaining an autococker will be an ok task for me?

currentyl iv been using a spyder victor
very easy to maintain etc

tom

 

[L J]

hmm well they are quite complicated,but , as the saying goes, if it works, dont try anf fix it, if you follow that its really quite simple. it works fine so there would be no point taking at apart.
the most complicated thing would be timing, wont go into details, but it would be best to find someone that knows how to do it, doesnt take long, but this wont go out of time unless you touch it anyway, the only real maintenance needed is the bolt, and to take that out just take the bolt pin out!

 

[tom9]

ok?

so are you saying maintenence would be easy and wats this bout timing
please go into full

thanks

 

[L J]

well the firing of autocockers is different from most guns

a normal blow back gun, when u press the trigger, the bolt will fly forwards, hitting the ball and using gas to propel it, while also using gas to send it back into the cocked position. an auto cocker is different. you pull trigger and the gun fires, then a ram pushes the back block back, which is attached to the bolt and this takes the bolt back so a ball can fall into the breach, then you realease the trigger and the bolt goes forward into the cocked position, so instead of the bolt flying forwards to hit the ball, it has already touched the ball, and only realeases gas to move it.

for all this to work properly it needs to be in 'time', hence timing. when u fire, the first thing to moce is the cocking rod, which is attached to the valve, which lets the air go through, this goes forwards, lets the air through to fire a ball, and basically as soon as this has done, the ram pushes the bolt back, to recock the coking rod, and the bolt. it sound complicated, but is quite easy to understand...
try this pic for size, study it a bit and you should work out how it works
http://www.ukcougars.freeserve.co.uk/animatedautococker.htm