Inferno T3 on HPA

[killerbanjo]

Hey all, recently god hold of an inferno t3 and it does not want to recock on HPA. I had a look at the valve and i think its to do with the lack of flow around the pin? I was wondering what other people have done in the past to get them to work well on hpa. Many thanks!

Ed

 

[Alex R]

Along time ago when the site I used to work at got some new infernos they had to drill the brass valve guides hole to widen it a touch as it wasn't letting enough air through.I wouldn't recommend doing it though, take too much off and you could make things worse. Also how old is the marker? the velocity spring may be weakened if old. They also occasionally had to add a small washer under the valve spring, not sure what it was for though as I can't remember. instead contact powerball and ask for their help.

 

[killerbanjo]

I have contacted powerball but this is the third email over about 2 years which they have never answered (Use to have a stirling) Thanks or the reply! If anyone has dimensions or have done this themselves would love to hear!

 

[Alex R]

I have contacted powerball but this is the third email over about 2 years which they have never answered (Use to have a stirling) Thanks or the reply! If anyone has dimensions or have done this themselves would love to hear!

I've edited my reply as I seem to remember the pin grinding caused some issues with taking too much off! and not worth it unless you have spares.

 

[killerbanjo]

I do not have the spares but my uncle is a machinest so i can quickly have a new pin made up if needed. I will give powerball a while longer though I just hope they reply this time!

Cheers, Ed.

 

[BOD]

Hey all, recently god hold of an inferno t3 and it does not want to recock on HPA. I had a look at the valve and i think its to do with the lack of flow around the pin? I was wondering what other people have done in the past to get them to work well on hpa. Many thanks!

Ed

Powerball do an air version of the valve and a longer spring to solve this issue and you're right it's not enough air getting past the pin to re cock the hammer. What ever you do don't drill out the valve guide as that will knacker it up straight away as the valve pin will be wobbling all over the place. You can file/grind a small flat along the pin 3 to 4mm wide this will allow more air to go past and the pin will still be guided by the guide, best to gently ease the cup off first as any heat created by the filling will melt the cup seal hole. You will probably want to put a packer behind the main spring as well, i used 9mm nylon rod about 10mm long, any longer than that and the hammer won't be able to go back far enough for the sear to catch.

 

[killerbanjo]

Thats exactly what I was looking for! thanks BOD