OK, over here: http://www.p8ntballer-forums.com/vb/showthread.php?147639-Multicam-mask I showed off my Multicam paintwork on a Proto mask. Here is a general "HowTo".
Part 1
First, a few things to consider/buy:
1. What mask are you painting? Frankly, some masks are easier to do that others. I'm doing a JT Flex here, but unless you're confdent in masking up something with loads of ribs and vents, you might want to choose a simpler mask (Proto ES or similar is a good starter). Also, the more the mask flexes, the more risk of paint eventually cracking.
2. Paint. I use hobby acrylics with acrylic extenders (to ensure the result doesn't peel/crack), because they are flexible, dry quickly, have good adhesion to primed surfaces and can be mixed easily.
Seriously here - water based acrylics are good. Solvent based enamels may well be bad. They are banned from being used on air tanks for good reason: they may alter the strength of the fibre/epoxy coating, so if it's bad for tanks, it may well be bad for safety masks.
I mix my own colours, largely because you can't really get a good match off the shelf. Vallejo from ModelZone comes in a range of colours close enough to use as a starting point (see later on mixing). While you're there, make sure you get a proper Acrylic thinner - essential. Also get a suitable plastic primer - I use Plastikote satin or matt paint - not gloss! After I'm done painting, I use Plastikote clear matt coat to seal.
3. Masking materials. Here I use Paintmask by Metamark. You can get this from hobby stores, if you look hard enough, but if you phone Metamark up (Google it), you will get half a roll (lifetimes supply) for a tenner. Depending on the pattern you're painting, you could try other options (e.g., Frog Tape), but I've found it too tough to work with for the complex patterns in MC.
4. Spray Equipment. If you've got an airbrush, great, but a simple hobby spray kit will do (Revell one, £12 from hobby stores). However, if you're new to airbrushing, it's not difficult, but definitely worth it to practice thinning paints down to the right consistency (i.e., the same as milk) and getting a smooth finish. Also get a smooth flat brush - more on that later.
5. Get some real Multicam. You'll need something to help you mix the paints right, as well as to guide you in cutting the masks. Use the real stuff, not a knock off, where the colours may be off (unless you're trying to match rip-off stuff).
Next up, colours. It helps to understand how Multicam works, so you can get the right effect. See below:
You will need to get your colours right. My advice: mix them one at a time into a spray bottle, so they're ready. Test each colour against your Multicam sample when they are dry. Sounds complicated, but trial-and-error on one colour is as simple as - mix paint - paint card - wait 30 secs to dry - compare against real colour - add more green/brown/black/white, etc - rinse and repeat. Once you've got a good match for that paint, bottle it and get ready for the following.....
Part 2: the Paint Sequence!
First, remove the lens of your mask and prime. A good plastic paint primer will work, so long as it is sprayed thin. Here's what a Flex 8 looks like:
Once primed, I've learned it's good to lay down a good thick acrylic base, as this is flexible and will form a good base for some of the thinner "washes". Here, I use the Light khaki-olive colour, which I brush on in a medium coat - why? Well, it is this, not the primer, that will "hold" the rest of the thinner coats, so this is an important foundation. No need to spray this, and using that fine brush will allow you to get into all those nooks and crannies, laying down a reasonably thick (not too thick) coat.
Afterwards, it looks like this...
The mask looks like this afterwards....
Next, using your airbrush, lay down the darker fade colour (in this case, NATO Green). Be conservative in your use....just spray edges...
The mask should look like this....
In the next installment, I'll show you the steps you need to take to build up the subsequent colours.
Part 1
First, a few things to consider/buy:
1. What mask are you painting? Frankly, some masks are easier to do that others. I'm doing a JT Flex here, but unless you're confdent in masking up something with loads of ribs and vents, you might want to choose a simpler mask (Proto ES or similar is a good starter). Also, the more the mask flexes, the more risk of paint eventually cracking.
2. Paint. I use hobby acrylics with acrylic extenders (to ensure the result doesn't peel/crack), because they are flexible, dry quickly, have good adhesion to primed surfaces and can be mixed easily.
Seriously here - water based acrylics are good. Solvent based enamels may well be bad. They are banned from being used on air tanks for good reason: they may alter the strength of the fibre/epoxy coating, so if it's bad for tanks, it may well be bad for safety masks.
I mix my own colours, largely because you can't really get a good match off the shelf. Vallejo from ModelZone comes in a range of colours close enough to use as a starting point (see later on mixing). While you're there, make sure you get a proper Acrylic thinner - essential. Also get a suitable plastic primer - I use Plastikote satin or matt paint - not gloss! After I'm done painting, I use Plastikote clear matt coat to seal.
3. Masking materials. Here I use Paintmask by Metamark. You can get this from hobby stores, if you look hard enough, but if you phone Metamark up (Google it), you will get half a roll (lifetimes supply) for a tenner. Depending on the pattern you're painting, you could try other options (e.g., Frog Tape), but I've found it too tough to work with for the complex patterns in MC.
4. Spray Equipment. If you've got an airbrush, great, but a simple hobby spray kit will do (Revell one, £12 from hobby stores). However, if you're new to airbrushing, it's not difficult, but definitely worth it to practice thinning paints down to the right consistency (i.e., the same as milk) and getting a smooth finish. Also get a smooth flat brush - more on that later.
5. Get some real Multicam. You'll need something to help you mix the paints right, as well as to guide you in cutting the masks. Use the real stuff, not a knock off, where the colours may be off (unless you're trying to match rip-off stuff).
Next up, colours. It helps to understand how Multicam works, so you can get the right effect. See below:
You will need to get your colours right. My advice: mix them one at a time into a spray bottle, so they're ready. Test each colour against your Multicam sample when they are dry. Sounds complicated, but trial-and-error on one colour is as simple as - mix paint - paint card - wait 30 secs to dry - compare against real colour - add more green/brown/black/white, etc - rinse and repeat. Once you've got a good match for that paint, bottle it and get ready for the following.....
Part 2: the Paint Sequence!
First, remove the lens of your mask and prime. A good plastic paint primer will work, so long as it is sprayed thin. Here's what a Flex 8 looks like:
Once primed, I've learned it's good to lay down a good thick acrylic base, as this is flexible and will form a good base for some of the thinner "washes". Here, I use the Light khaki-olive colour, which I brush on in a medium coat - why? Well, it is this, not the primer, that will "hold" the rest of the thinner coats, so this is an important foundation. No need to spray this, and using that fine brush will allow you to get into all those nooks and crannies, laying down a reasonably thick (not too thick) coat.
Afterwards, it looks like this...
The mask looks like this afterwards....
Next, using your airbrush, lay down the darker fade colour (in this case, NATO Green). Be conservative in your use....just spray edges...
The mask should look like this....
In the next installment, I'll show you the steps you need to take to build up the subsequent colours.
