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halo switch

JackRegan

yeah but, no but ....
Mar 10, 2003
68
0
0
London
www.paulregan.co.uk
mine ping'd off, i think i managed to find all the bits, but i now have a clickless switch so i assume i'm missing something.

i did some digging and tom da man recomended on a previous thread ...

rs components do it, 378-6577 which has a soft click, and 378-6583 which has a hard click
which are both type E .. but how does the brown plastic part of the existing halo switch fit to this, or do i dump that ? .. or could i go for a type d ? its the same size and looks to have an integral poking out bit ..

 
Thats not the right one(for the newer halos).

The correct one is the surface mount, long button version.

But when I have repaired these in the past I have used the through-hole, long button version.

You can get them from maplins, although im sure they have them at RS too...

All you need to do is:

Cut the old switch off at the legs.
Desolder the legs.
Drill 4 holes in the solder pads.
Put the new switch in the holes you have just drilled.
Solder the legs of the new switch to the board (on the top side)
Make sure the legs of the new switch are flush with the bottom of the board (cut any excess off with wire cutters)

Thats it..
 
The type of switch you need depends on the backplate you have.
The early halo Bs came with the old backplate.


If you have the newer backplate, you need the long button switch.

If you have the old backplate, which is plain black, and has a rubber button then you need the short button switch, the one Tom recommended.
 

JackRegan

yeah but, no but ....
Mar 10, 2003
68
0
0
London
www.paulregan.co.uk
ah ok, its a new one then .. just so i can order today do you know which p/n is the right length ?

SWT10543mmBlack
SWT105A50mmBlack
SWT105B95mmBlack
SWT105T73mmBlack

i'm assuming the last 2 digits are the length and missing a decimal point .. so i'd guess at the 7.3 .. or maybe the 5 .. ?

cheers