Etek 3 Questions ? and basic understanding how the gun works..

[fishleg003]

I'm new to this game... I'm slowly getting to know my marker getting a bit more daring, going a bit deeper into the manual then taking a few screws out I never took out before..

Yeah I'm a bit of a freak I love to know how stuff works.. I fix photocopiers btw .

I've seen a few sorta videos but nothing that really explains what happens start to finish. So is there a video out there that maybe shows how these work ?

What I'd like to know...

HPR/LPR - So air from bottle goes through hpr psi is lowered from tank then again to the lpr which moves the ram back and forth... Now when the rammer hits the poppet valve is air released from the hpr straight to the chamber or is it channeled through the lpr ?

What does the spring do in the hpr reg its very meaty ? and should you lube the whole spring / housing liberally ?

The old saying if it aint broke dont fix it surely maintaining the lpr hpr all the time is gonna be more harmful because your breaking the seals over and over right ? So I guess your talking every few months before you go that deep.

I've seen quite a few videos with people putting wire ties on the macroline just before it touches the inlet things, what gives ?

The last one people seem to decrease the lpr a turn and up the dwell so the gun is smoother is it worth it ?

Appreciate any info . Fishy.

 

[Liam92]

almost got the operation of the gun. there's a really nifty set of diagrams in page 9 of your manual but basically the rammer is held back by pressure at the front of the rammer coming from the solenoid. when you pull your trigger the solenoid vents air and puts air behind the rammer, pushing it forward. when it strikes the poppet the air from the HPR travels up through the bolt. after this when the set time (dwell) has elapsed the solenoid puts air back in front of the rammer and this pushes it back to the starting position. this is often called an air forward/return design, whereas a simpler design may use a spring return
http://www.zdspb.com/media/tech/animations/ego_etek1.gif

by 'decreasing' the LPR this reduces the force driving the bolt so will result in a smoother shot, but screwing it in too much before the gun is broken in creates inconsistent velocity. after that if you increase the dwell, the time the bolt is forward and air is flowing is increased, allowing for a subsequently lower pressure from the HPR, which also gives a gentler shot. this does decrease efficiency though.

wire ties at the macroline i've not a scooby and never seen that.

the big chunky spring is what your adjuster screw presses against and by changing the volume inside the reg slightly, this is what changes the pressure of the HPR (i think, only point i'm not 100% on).

overlubricating the parts can lead to worse performance like you said but mainly because the bolt or whatever is having to essentially push the excess out of the way, but it needs to be pretty caked before that happens, better having too much than too little! just depends how much you're using your gun how often you maintain it.

 

[fishleg003]

Cheers matey that animation is really easy to understand. I did read the book version but to me it wasnt all that clear if i'm honest.

So i guess the stock settings are fine ? Leaving the dwell and lpr alone is best or will it increase wear on the poppet valve etc if they arent changed ?

Thx. Fishy.

 

[Liam92]

Cheers matey that animation is really easy to understand. I did read the book version but to me it wasnt all that clear if i'm honest.

So i guess the stock settings are fine ? Leaving the dwell and lpr alone is best or will it increase wear on the poppet valve etc if they arent changed ?

Thx. Fishy.

not at all these guns are built to last! there's no need to change from stock settings unless you like to tinker, in which case its possible to get a tiny increase in performance but its really not very noticeable at all.

glad to be of some help