EGO BOARD AND TUNING GUIDE
Here is a short explanation of almost every setting in the board
Timing
Dwell-the time the rammer and bolt remain forward, raising it increases velocity and at some point will loose consistency, see the tuning guide at the end to tune this properly after your ego is broken in
Fsdo-the time that is added onto your regular dwell to increase velocity of your first shot to overcome first shot shoot down, this should be left stock unless you notice a really low first shot reading, then raise until it becomes inline with the rest of your shots
Off Rof-this is the rate of fire that the gun is capped at in semi with eyes off
Filter
Ball-the time the board needs to detect a break in the break beam to allow the next shot to register
Empty-the amount of time the board needs to detect a void between shots to allow the next shot to register
Pull-the amount of time the board needs to detect a trigger pull to be considered valid
Release- the amount of time the board needs to detect a release of the trigger to allow the next pull to be valid
TT tol-this is the amount the board has a tolerance for a bounce, the higher it is the less bounce it will allow through
TT band- this percent determines how far across the trigger pull the bounce filters work
Version 1.00
Semi-uncapped with eyes on and paint, capped to your “off rof” with eyes off
Psp- ramps up to 15bps starting at 4 bps with 1second restart
Cfoa-semi capped at 15bps
Millenium-ramps up to 15bps starting at 8bps
Taining-uncapped
Version 1.06 (max rof is capped at 15)
Semi 1- uncapped with eyes on and paint, capped at "max rof" with eyes off
Semi 2- semi capped at "max rof"
Ramp1- ramps up to “max rof” starting at 4bps with 1second restart
Ramp2- ramps up to "max rof" starting at 8bps
Taining-uncapped
Ego board settings tuning guide
Set your trigger how you like it for feeling. Now extremely slowly pull your trigger and guesstimate at what point in the pull the gun activates (fires), either in the beginning, middle or end of the pull(putting your activation point in the middle of the pull is best for reducing bounce). Once you know that follow this and adjust your ttpul and ttrel accordingly
Activation
Point_______Pull___Release
Beginning____4_______2
Middle______3________3
End_________2_______4
(If you have a particularly short pull with little travel then reduce all these numbers above by 1 each)
1. Now once you have that set, put your tt tol at 8% and tt band at 78%. This should be a good start point. Now see if your gun bounces preferably with paint, but dry fire would be best, training mode does not accurately show bounce so don’t bother.
2. If you still have bounce proceed to raise your band to 80 and your tol to 6.
3. If bounce still persists then try to raise the band to mid 80’s if it still bounces after that then raise your pull and release one each and you should be good.
Now if your bounce stopped at the first tt settings or the second you will want to try and drop your pull and release by one each, if it bounces then go to the next step in tt tol and band.
*NOTE* Settings aren't magic, they can't do anything beyond tune your gun and make it more or less bouncy. But as you have read not one set of settings will have the same effect on all egos, every ego is different, and for that matter every ego solenoid has a dwell at which it operates most efficently resulting in the best consistency. As for bounce settings it is next to impossible to share settings with somebody and hope that it will eliminate bounce, the best that you can do is to get some good baselines to work off of and tweak to your own trigger. So to recap, moose's settings aren't magical and won't necessarily work perfectly on your gun, the reason why moose's settings are infamous is mostly because the egos he sent out and tuned himself worked great because each had special attention, the same effect will not necessarily happen to your gun, so don't go setting hoping to find one set that works, make your own thats what the manual is there for.
Ego dwell and lpr tuning guide
These are two posts posted by Jack Wood of planet eclipse in this thread,
http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.php?t=1082401
"The first think I would recommend, as mentioned above, is to increase the dwell up to 9, and maybe even 9.5-10.0
Some guns that leave the factory have to have the dwell raised over standard 8.0 ms in order to reach higher, more consistent readings, so it is normal and nothing to be conserned about. It is just a fact of life that some solenoids/QEVs require a slightly longer electrical pulse to achieve a consistent rammer pulse.
Jack Wood"
"That depends very much on the gun.
The only way to set it perfectly is to keep upping the dwell over the chrono. Stop upping the dwell when the velocity peaks, and then bring it back down a couple of points.
That should give maximum velocity for minimum dwell. Obviously every time you alter the LPR you should do this again to get it absolutely spot on. Also, if you find you get a massive gain in velocity when you start upping the dwell (ie it sends the velocity 320-330 +) then bring the in-line pressure down, leave the LPR and double check the dwell by dropping itand raising it back to the peak velocity.
Basically it isa very delicat interplay between in-line pressure (because that is what stops the valve from opening AND what fires theball out) LPR pressure, valve dwell and hammer/bolt/pin mass.
Jack"
From these two posts by jack wood i got these steps
1. Set lpr to the point you want, i hear 2 turns in from flush works like a dream
2. Keep raising the dwell over the chrono until it peaks, but if it begins to go above 320-330 then lower your inline a little, and then lower the dwell a bit and continue to raise it until it peaks. Then you are good. I have also noticed that if you just raise your dwell until the gun seems most consistent it works just as well, but keep in mind you will want some high quality paint to get accurate readings.
