ok its fairly straight forward.
frame off.......remove the board, trigger comes out easy.....as your stripping to anno dont forget all the small trigger adjustment screws. take the display filter out the back of the frame, you may have to get a new one of these as they are glued in. dont loose the silver button caps!
take the rammer houseing out the body.
ram cap has an oring, 2 orings on the front of the ram housing.
the brass insert in the housing is loctited in with blue stuff, careful when you take it out.
qevs are loctited in with green. the way i have been shown how to do this is with a PERFECTLY fitting spanner gently apply pressure till you feel the loctite give then SLOWLY ease them out.
some people seem to find it impossible to do but i managed to do 100 or so and only damage one, be careful and you will be ok.
back to the body, take the screws out the feed neck, there is an oring under the collar, sharp pull and it will come off.
take the frm retaining screw out. remove the 3 orings from the top of it. pull the lpr assembly out the front.
2 hidden orings in here as you disassemble it, one under the adjuster screw on the front cap and one inside the clear (silver) anodised part that sits in the body.
all the low pressure hoses on barbs can be removed and reused but for the sake of risking them damaging the barbs id cut them off and use new hose.
you will need to remove the barb on the frm to anno it, again green loctite......use eather a nut driver (if you have one) or a perfectly fitting spanner and same as before apply pressure till the loctite gives then go slow.
you wont need to mess with the noid, once you have cut the hoses just leave it on the minifold ready to reassemble. also i would store the board in an antistatic bag if you have one.
be careful with the qevs and the frb barb and the rest is easy pie
