Idiots guide to timing a cocker . . .with blade...
Ok, as your just changing the slide trigger to the blade there no need to set the back block gap or cocking rod so i'll skip them......
So take off your old frame (bet ya guessed that already!
) and screw the blade on slipping the actuating rod into the trigger plate. At this point I would take off the Blade shoe ready to adjust the pull length. There is no need to play with the 2nd pull adjuster under the trigger plate.
So now you've got the frame on change the front and back hoses on the 3 way around, so all hose are straight (unless its a Shocktech Bomb as they'll be now be crossed).
First thing you should do is set the pull length for the hammer release, you need to take out the bolt and drop an allen key through the hole in the top of the body, the size of key varies depending on the hammer (nelspot dialler is 3/32). Make sure the gun is NOT cocked and with a bit of patience you should find the lug screw, you may need to pull the hammer back slightly with the cocking rod.
Before you start messing with it cock the gun (degassed) and slowly pull the trigger until the hammer if released, depending on the length of pull depends on how you set it. .. .but i'll take it the shortest reliably possible! Unscrew or screw the lug so that the hammer is released just as the accuating rod is moved by the trigger plate.
Next you need to set the recocking operation of the 3way, this is adjusted by the collar on the accutating rod. You'll need 1/16th allen key to unscrew the locking screw.
As its a Blade the adjustment screwing the collar onto the thread (tighting it) lengthens the pull and the opposite shortens it. As a sliding trigger is opposite the best thing to do is to tighten (anti-clockwise looking from the back of the gun) the collar about 5 turns this should just about reverse it and leave plenty of room for playing. Gas it up and pull the trigger, if it cocks good, if not whilst holding the trigger down unscrew the collar until it cocks and release. If the screw is not far enough back it will either leak or just stay cocked.
So it will now be fireable, ideally the timing you should aim for is when you slowly pull the trigger the hammer should release and the back block should not of moved, then as you pull the trigger minutely further the back block should then move, pulling the trigger back to complete the cocking. Now you can shorten the actual pull of the trigger with the stop screw, screw it in so that when the trigger is pull the gun should be fully cocked just b4 the stop screw touches the frame. Also a bit of locktite is recommend on you stop screw to keep it in place.
Help that helps!! I aint hard. . . . . .any questions . . . . .
