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cocker grips and frames

The Don

THE AGD GUY, THE MAG MAN.
Jul 27, 2004
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please help me, i have an evo cocker and i want to make the trigger lighter and idealy a little less travel, ive seen race eblades and hinge triggers. i think the first 2 are electronic, and as fully auto isnt strickly legal in this country whats the point? whats the difference appart from the price? and do they work if the batteries run out, proberly a supid question but still better to ask. and a hinge trigger, whats that and what are the advantages? am i right in thinking the nexus upgrade its is the best?
 

Rabies

Trogdor!
Jul 1, 2002
1,344
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London, UK
Electronic triggers are a whole lot more than a way of getting full auto (both Race and Eblades are, or can be set, to tournament-legal semi-only mode - otherwise nobody would ever be allowed them on the field!)

An electronic trigger is so much lighter than a mechanical trigger which makes it easy to "walk" with two fingers, thus letting you shoot fast (try shooting 15bps with a mechanical trigger!) Because of the lighter trigger pull it is easier to keep on target when shooting, or to shoot accurately when walking or running. If you have some money to spend, an electronic frame is an essential upgrade to any cocker these days if you want to be competative.

Electronic frames stop working when then battery dies. A possible downside, but if you keep it in mind it shouldn't ever be a problem. Race frames have a rechargeable battery which lasts for days of play at a time, and comes with a charger. Eblades take normal 9V batteries (does the E2 have a rechargable?), and although the Eblade has a reputation for eating batteries, if you remember to replace the battery regularly it's not a problem.

Hinge triggers are still mechanical, thus still relatively long and stiff trigger pull, but most people find them much better than normal slide cocker triggers. Hinge triggers are, as the name implies, pivoted at a single point above the trigger, instead of sliding in its housing. This makes double-finger triggers possible. They are very easy to pick up cheaply now, though, especially since so many people are selling theirs off to replace them with electronic frames.

As for other upgrades, which is the best depends on who you ask! The Nexus upgrade kit is certainly up there with the best, although many of the parts are Belsales (makers of the Evo) parts with different milling.

Hope that all helps a bit :D
 

The Don

THE AGD GUY, THE MAG MAN.
Jul 27, 2004
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wow, now thats a comprehensive answer, thanks. the hard part is picking one now. this is another upgrade question, slightly off topic but, the slik complete back block upgrade sounds good, any thoughts? thanks again for a top reply. :D
 

The Don

THE AGD GUY, THE MAG MAN.
Jul 27, 2004
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lol just when i thought i was getting the hang of this, theres too many upgrades to comprihend! i think im gonna start a what do you think is the ultimate cocker thread, and see what everyone else thinks. ive lost track of the number of hours ive spent trawling forums and website. so this p block is it good? can i make it better? im trying to make a kick a$$ cocker, from my 2001 evo x. i did start with a 98 evolution but decided to move to the post 2000, for ease of upgrades.
 

Skeet

Platinum Member
I didnt say it was better...its just that the Slik Blocks I have seen wont fit a P Block!!

I think the Sliks are very cool...they only weigh 9 grammes, which is sod all....

What are you trying to achieve with the cocker..and how much do you want to spend...., has it got the straight sided LPR or the newer curvy one....
 

The Don

THE AGD GUY, THE MAG MAN.
Jul 27, 2004
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im try to get the best accuracy i can, thats why i was looking at triggers and frames, im currently purchasing an ebalde, i shouldve done more research first, id prefer the battery life of the race, i also didnt know a mk2 eblade was coming out, i though lighter moving parts would help reduce recoil thus aid accuracy, and make the marker quicker, although thats not a high priority, but it would be nice to have a competative marker, price isnt an issue, i dont mind slowly building up kit and upgrading as i go, would be better to know what im after and then buy it secondhand and already upgraded, i suppose that stil an option. the lpr is straight.
 

Skeet

Platinum Member
Well...get yourself the E-Blade frame..(is it a secondhand one?) then, later on you can get the Zero Board, which will make it E2 spec, also the E2 grips if you want them...this will make your marker very much better...then all you need to do,as you want, is to get a delrin bolt, 44 Nexus Ram and a pair of QEV's, maybe a Titanium Pump arm £15 from Belsales...this will make it all very light.
Accuracy wise, the Cocker has a very good base for an accurate marker..all you need is a good multi bore Barrel kit, I recommend the Evil Pipe kit..and then, a good consistent Airsystem..I recommend the Nitroduck Extreme...which is an inexpensive reg, that looks like a Preset, but is infact adjustable. £75 or there abouts, which means that you can use a bottom line on/off assembly, which will improve your ability to "stay tight" within your barricade.

If you want any advice, or a chat get me on MSN gary.brooks@blueyonder.co.uk usually about after 6 weekdays.

I have a pic of an EVO E-Blade that I built for someone, if you are interested.