Cocker Bolt Lengths on E-blades

[Dan Chase]

OK guys and gals,
about to fit several E-Blades onto some team guns.
Most have custom blots which sit more forward in the breach, only just clearing when in the rear position, as it really cuts down on blow back.
However, on checking out a couple of Nexus E-blades, they seem to have almost the opposite set up, ie the bolt come back and clears the breach by about 3 - 4 mm in the open position. With this set up they really rock.

Question:
Should I copy the Nexus set up - would seem to be a good idea, but although I have worked on loads of mechanical cockers, I am a little inexperienced with the inticacies of the eletro set up.

Question:
I also shot Ledz`s E-blade a few months ago - E-blade kit fitted on an old eclipse, complete with peeling nickel on the ram etc.
No fancy parts, no fancy bolts, no fancy regs - all just proven and well used Eclipse parts - and it was the fastest, easyiest to shoot, downright outragous cocker I have ever shot.
Are we all just wasting our money on extra custom parts when should just stick with Eclipse as there was no way you could improve on the one I shot.

Start cutting me down know!

 

[jahlad]

first of all, haveing the bolt travel set so that it only just clears the feed tube wont do a thing for blow back....
blow back is when excess gas blows back up the feed tube, its gonna do that even if the bolt just clears, the reason the nexus gun are set with a 3-4 mm longer travel is to that there is more time and space for the balls to drop infront of the bolt (therefore less likely to chop)....its gonna take the same time for the bolt to move rearward as the travel of the ram will be the same no matter what (there is no way to adjust ram travel),
as long as the gas transfer hole in the bolt is in the right place at the right time THAT will stop blow back.
tis the same on all cockers not just electros

as for fancy parts.....all mine are eclipse, they are proven parts that do the job well, no messin every time!

 

[Gyroscope]

Jahlad is correct- and this is an easy thing to adjust on the E-blade.

Make sure that you set the CDEL (the delay between trigger pull and the beginning of the ram's backward travel) so that it is later than the time your valve is open. The time your valve is open is (as you may know) a function of the tension of your valve and main springs, as well as the weight of the hammer. The CDEL on the E-blade is adjustable in increments of .001 seconds. I test for blowback by stretching a balloon or finger cot over the feed neck. It will perk up if you have blowback. You can prevent blowback on a regular cocker by making sure there is enough distance between the point in the pull where the sear releases and the point that throws the 4-way.

Hope that makes sense.

 

[Gyroscope]

Some custom parts make sense...

Delrin bolts are lighter, usually, than metal bolts. That means lower cocking pressure can be used to make the marker cycle at the same speed because there is less inertia to overcome. I am a big fan of delrin for not needing oil, too.

A ram with a longer throw should make it less likely that you will chop balls, although the E-blade eye should stop most of that anyway. This achieves the same thing as setting back your bolt farther.

A ram with a wider bore should require less air pressure to achieve the same force in cycling. The key phrase, though, is "same force" which is either enough to chop the paint or not, no matter what air pressure is used for cocking (correct me if I'm wrong).

A higher flow, more open valve will allow lower main pressure and lighter springing. This means lower cocking pressure, which means less chance of chops. It also means (as I understand it) less deformation of the ball and a truer trajectory, with less chance of barrel breaks. I feel that low enough pressure also makes it hard to clean out the barrel with a few dry shots.

A heavier hammer reduces the required main spring tension to achieve acceptable velocity. Energy equals mass times acceleration, and the force of acceleration is governed by main spring tension. If you need a given amount of energy, you have two variables that are easily altered.

An adjustable LPR is nice for finding the lowest pressure at which you can cycle quickly. Lighter main spring tension reduces the force required to cycle the bolt.

Custom milled and anoed bodies are cool.

If I have a misconception, someone correct it. These are the upgrades I feel matter.