Challenge
- Thread starter davejeff66
- Start date
Probably not possible. At least not without extensive re-milling, and even then, probably not. You'd have to be able to mount the sear tripper, try and find some way to get the board and switch to line up correctly with the trigger, that's saying that the screw holes to mount the frame to the body line up on a 'cocker. Probably a hell of a lot more trouble than it's worth. It would probably be easier just to make a custom STAR-esque frame from scratch with 'cocker specs.
yes i could be done, i havnt done it but i was very tempted.
if you are using an mq valve you wouldnt need the linear noid therefor you could use a star frame very easily but you would have to drill new mounting holes for it (no problem).
im told but havnt tried that the zero-b board drops staight in.
would be pritty cool on a half block cocker.
if you are using an mq valve you wouldnt need the linear noid therefor you could use a star frame very easily but you would have to drill new mounting holes for it (no problem).
im told but havnt tried that the zero-b board drops staight in.
would be pritty cool on a half block cocker.
Ah, hadn't thought of the MQ valve. I suppose then it wouldn't be real difficult. Maybe kind of ugly, with extra holes and all, but if it worked alright, that'd be tolerable.
See I'm building a cocker and it's coming up to the time where I need to get hold of a frame for it. I was just gonna buy an E2, but if anybody can come up with a way of fitting a STAR frame - more importantly, if anybody can help me out with details about how to go about it - I would be ubergrateful.
ok first of all you will need
star frame and trigger with all the screws etc.....
an mq valve
a zero b board.
an eblade front noid and mount
eather an eblade eye or if you feel like doing a little more work im i 'think' that an ego break beam eye can be used.
ok first install the front noid and mount as per normal.
then install the mq as normal.
decide what eye system you are using... then drill the nessessary holes.
ok heres where it gets a little inventive.
offer up the star frame to the body....the mounting holes are not going to line up....you need to try and get the front one to line up if poss as this would be the hardest to move....if the front one is parking the frame in a good place then you will simply need to mark and drill a hole in the frame to line up the back screw.
once the frame is attached you then need to make sure all the wireing from eyes etc fits in.....the front noid wire will run fine down the track where an ego would run a low pressure hose to the noid so that shouldnt be a prob....the eye wire will prob land up in more or less the right place but might need a little work.
job done, drop in the zero b, plug it all in and away you go.
this isnt tested btw but if you are confident enough to mod the frame a little it should work no probs
star frame and trigger with all the screws etc.....
an mq valve
a zero b board.
an eblade front noid and mount
eather an eblade eye or if you feel like doing a little more work im i 'think' that an ego break beam eye can be used.
ok first install the front noid and mount as per normal.
then install the mq as normal.
decide what eye system you are using... then drill the nessessary holes.
ok heres where it gets a little inventive.
offer up the star frame to the body....the mounting holes are not going to line up....you need to try and get the front one to line up if poss as this would be the hardest to move....if the front one is parking the frame in a good place then you will simply need to mark and drill a hole in the frame to line up the back screw.
once the frame is attached you then need to make sure all the wireing from eyes etc fits in.....the front noid wire will run fine down the track where an ego would run a low pressure hose to the noid so that shouldnt be a prob....the eye wire will prob land up in more or less the right place but might need a little work.
job done, drop in the zero b, plug it all in and away you go.
this isnt tested btw but if you are confident enough to mod the frame a little it should work no probs
The E1/Zero-B will go straight in and as already mentioned and you will be needing an MQ valve.
The biggest issue is that EGO frames are to long and need to be chopped at one or both ends.
Pics are of a standard 05 EGO frame and a full lenth cocker body.
And my gat wit cut down ego frame, fully working but still con finished.
Notice how cutting the frame at the rear brakes into the try section and needs something to fill it.
I Guess if you had a front block with asa on it it would be possible to use the frame at full lenth and just plug the old asa holes.
The biggest issue is that EGO frames are to long and need to be chopped at one or both ends.
Pics are of a standard 05 EGO frame and a full lenth cocker body.
And my gat wit cut down ego frame, fully working but still con finished.
Notice how cutting the frame at the rear brakes into the try section and needs something to fill it.
I Guess if you had a front block with asa on it it would be possible to use the frame at full lenth and just plug the old asa holes.
nice one strawb!
thats extream modding there, i take it the cocking noid is now in the grip sat where an ego noid would?
are you using the standard e2 manifold on it or a modded ego one?
thats extream modding there, i take it the cocking noid is now in the grip sat where an ego noid would?
are you using the standard e2 manifold on it or a modded ego one?
