Automag Pump ?
- Thread starter Dave427
- Start date
Yes, here is a video. Not a "how to" video but he does say what has been done to make a pump mag.
Yep - you just have to break it!
Not really, it is possible, you will require a pump kit and a rail (the bit between the body and the trigger frame) that has been milled to accept the pump kit.
I beleive @renie has done the milling in the past and I know @Gee Tee enjoys his pump mags.
I know rainman229 makes pump kits for $145 dollars but his website says out of stock,
Not really, it is possible, you will require a pump kit and a rail (the bit between the body and the trigger frame) that has been milled to accept the pump kit.
I beleive @renie has done the milling in the past and I know @Gee Tee enjoys his pump mags.
I know rainman229 makes pump kits for $145 dollars but his website says out of stock,
My XM15 kits came from a guy stateside but he's sadly no longer making them
The kit uses a wavy spring washer to stop bolt catching sear between shots. You also have to fine tune bolt spring length by clipping coils, and set power tube o-ring using spacers to prevent leaks down barrel. Pump stroke is very short and light. You only have to reset bolt by compressing the spring washer. Body (under breech) and rail both need milling to fit pump rod.
Lots of pump mag pictures here...
http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?263682-Official-AO-PumpMag-picture-thread&highlight=pump mags
The kit uses a wavy spring washer to stop bolt catching sear between shots. You also have to fine tune bolt spring length by clipping coils, and set power tube o-ring using spacers to prevent leaks down barrel. Pump stroke is very short and light. You only have to reset bolt by compressing the spring washer. Body (under breech) and rail both need milling to fit pump rod.
Lots of pump mag pictures here...
http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?263682-Official-AO-PumpMag-picture-thread&highlight=pump mags
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Some nice images there.
So i'm looking at:
1) Pump kit
2) Milling to body and rail
3) Some new grips and trigger. My trigger guard has been removed.
4) I would like a ULE body, so i can use my cocker barrels
5( Dye sticky grips
As i remember, the last time i used my sterling, it only seamed to get about 230 fps at the chrono. Might this mean i need a stronger return spring ?
I can't remember of how to adjust the velocity on this marker.
I need to get out there and see how they perform during a game.
So i'm looking at:
1) Pump kit
2) Milling to body and rail
3) Some new grips and trigger. My trigger guard has been removed.
4) I would like a ULE body, so i can use my cocker barrels
5( Dye sticky grips
As i remember, the last time i used my sterling, it only seamed to get about 230 fps at the chrono. Might this mean i need a stronger return spring ?
I can't remember of how to adjust the velocity on this marker.
I need to get out there and see how they perform during a game.
Depends which sterling it is, some can be adjusted with a long allen key through the pump handle but most require a change of main spring or shim the main spring with washers, the new bronzes come with washers just for this purpose, however there is another way.
They were actually designed for about a 500 - 600 psi input, normal bottle is 800 psi, so if you screw an old reg into the back of it (assuming its a rear asa) and run it down to a bottom line you can adjust the velocity via the regulator.
They were actually designed for about a 500 - 600 psi input, normal bottle is 800 psi, so if you screw an old reg into the back of it (assuming its a rear asa) and run it down to a bottom line you can adjust the velocity via the regulator.
Here are my markers, so a better option can be made on them. I know they need some TLC,
All ideas welcome
All ideas welcome
That's a fancy looking sterling, I think that wheel on the back of the bolt might adjust the velocity (it acts as a kind of choker restricting the amount of air that can flow through). Paint was probably rolling out of the barrel as well, put some tape inside at the back.