What makes a good autococker? I mean what peices? Like, costom autocockers, how do people know what peices they need, and how some are better then other. i don't mean barels, but the peices inside the gun.
Autococker
- Thread starter TechShock
- Start date
I guess trial, error and experience. They try summit if it dont work they try summit else. THen the word gets passed round and that successfull product gets a good/bad rep.
Or do you mean how did they design the internals of the cocker originally?
Or do you mean how did they design the internals of the cocker originally?
As for the front end (stuff under the barrel). Most aftermarket parts perform as well as each other. Personel recommendations would be the STO parts, angry 3 way etc.
As for bolt - shocktech venturi
Blade frame (so quick)
Super charger valve
basicaly the parts found on the Eclispe or Evo cocker work very well and you can build them up stage by stage.
Look at either Belsales or planet's web sites and all the info is there
If you want some reviews of nearly all aftermarket stuff, visit www.paintballravi.com THis is Ravi Chopra site the guy who write reviews for PGI
Hope this helps
jamie
As for bolt - shocktech venturi
Blade frame (so quick)
Super charger valve
basicaly the parts found on the Eclispe or Evo cocker work very well and you can build them up stage by stage.
Look at either Belsales or planet's web sites and all the info is there
If you want some reviews of nearly all aftermarket stuff, visit www.paintballravi.com THis is Ravi Chopra site the guy who write reviews for PGI
Hope this helps
jamie
What makes a good Cocker? Ah, the golden question of gun tech. I think we've all hit this a zillion times, but here goes my list:
1. Good valve. Tornado, Rocket, RAT 3, or MacDev RED. Why? Efficiency, low pressure, and quietness. Must be sprung correctly to work.
2. Proper hammer to go with the valve and springs.
3. Good LPR. Jackhammer 2 (what I use) or FGP. Sonics are good but hard to know how to adjust properly. Palmers are notoriously reliable but must be set, and quite honestly by the time I have a Cocker put together, I want it running THAT DAY, NOT A FEW THOUSAND SHOTS LATER. Simply put, if this part of your gun isn't working, the gun won't cycle correctly. Period.
4. Good 3way. I like Shocktech Bombs (short pull), ANS (can pull the shaft out straight through the front for lubing without taking the pneumatics off to get to it), and Bullets best. KEEP THEM LUBED OR YOU'LL BE SORRY!
5. Well bored out body. No, I don't mean the milling, but a gigantic air chamber up front. HUGE. You want it. If you don't have it, you'll wish you did. $400 milling and anodizing is in my opinion thrown away if you don't have enough air room up front to get 275-250psi operating pressure without a volumizer.
6. Good trigger plate and frame with set screws in every possible position. Rather than having to fumble around with a zillion sets of springs and bend plates and try idiodic manipulations that could more likely ruin your trigger settings, springs, and even frame, just get one with proper set screw placements so you can do the work yourself by simply adjusting screws and then MAYBE changing to a slightly different weight of sear and trigger return spring. DO NOT CHANGE SPRINGS UNTIL YOU HAVE THE OTHER SETTINGS RIGHT.
1. Good valve. Tornado, Rocket, RAT 3, or MacDev RED. Why? Efficiency, low pressure, and quietness. Must be sprung correctly to work.
2. Proper hammer to go with the valve and springs.
3. Good LPR. Jackhammer 2 (what I use) or FGP. Sonics are good but hard to know how to adjust properly. Palmers are notoriously reliable but must be set, and quite honestly by the time I have a Cocker put together, I want it running THAT DAY, NOT A FEW THOUSAND SHOTS LATER. Simply put, if this part of your gun isn't working, the gun won't cycle correctly. Period.
4. Good 3way. I like Shocktech Bombs (short pull), ANS (can pull the shaft out straight through the front for lubing without taking the pneumatics off to get to it), and Bullets best. KEEP THEM LUBED OR YOU'LL BE SORRY!
5. Well bored out body. No, I don't mean the milling, but a gigantic air chamber up front. HUGE. You want it. If you don't have it, you'll wish you did. $400 milling and anodizing is in my opinion thrown away if you don't have enough air room up front to get 275-250psi operating pressure without a volumizer.
6. Good trigger plate and frame with set screws in every possible position. Rather than having to fumble around with a zillion sets of springs and bend plates and try idiodic manipulations that could more likely ruin your trigger settings, springs, and even frame, just get one with proper set screw placements so you can do the work yourself by simply adjusting screws and then MAYBE changing to a slightly different weight of sear and trigger return spring. DO NOT CHANGE SPRINGS UNTIL YOU HAVE THE OTHER SETTINGS RIGHT.
Get a rollersear. Planet makes one and so does Smart Parts. They are sweet. I got one on my cocker and I love it. The triggerpull is lighter but mainly a lot smoother. It feels soooo much different.
I want to make a custom autococker, but the bog problem is that I dont know anything about them. lol, it kinda sets me back. I would need 2 know every singe peice i need, and which peices better then others. Anyone know a site name that has this info?
Think I should just buy an autococker and add peices, or start from scratch, and buy all the peices seprately?
Dude, dont get an autococker if you have no idea what you are doing. You will have problems. If you do end up getting a cocker get the Tech Tricks video. Bud Orr shows you how to totally assemble and dissasemble the gun. He also goes over some common problems and how they can be solved. He shows you how to maintain the gun and what needs to be done. The timing part is for the slotted trigger plates so you should ignore that part. If you get a cocker then get this video. you can get it from www.bbtpaintball.com Go to paintball, then catalog, then gun accesories for the autococker page 2. It is the video near the bottom. The place is in california so it might be a hassle depending on where you live but they ship to anywhere in the world.
If you dont know what you are doing then get an already built gun. The only cockers ive ever shot are the Stock, sto, shocktech, and one this dude built on his own. The shocktech was sweet!!!!. I would go for a shocktech, the evolution looks really nice but i dont have any experience with it. What ever you get get a hinge trigger frame with it. You could get an evolution and have em put on a blade frame. Get a hinge but don't get the wgp hinge, they blow. Blade or the shocktech hinge.
If you dont know what you are doing then get an already built gun. The only cockers ive ever shot are the Stock, sto, shocktech, and one this dude built on his own. The shocktech was sweet!!!!. I would go for a shocktech, the evolution looks really nice but i dont have any experience with it. What ever you get get a hinge trigger frame with it. You could get an evolution and have em put on a blade frame. Get a hinge but don't get the wgp hinge, they blow. Blade or the shocktech hinge.
Sure you should get a cocker and upgrade it ,after all the best way to gain experience with cockers and learn about how they work is by owning one,I never knew anything about cockers at all before I got my first one I just bought it then bought the upgrades and put them on,a bit of re-timing later ,Jobs a good 'un'.Go for it.