Hi guys
After I had some issues with my Demon, I thought I would create a guide with the aim to show people how to fix common problems.
Make sure you clean off all old lube first with a microfibre cloth so you do not scratch any part of the drive train.
The Drive Train
The Drive Train is the entire bolt system. It is what controls the air flow used to propel the paintball.
The Bolt Guide
You need to lube the following o-rings:
806 (drive o-ring - or bolt seal o-ring) - If you have a leak in the grip frame, check this for nicks/damage and replace.
011 (bolt tip o-ring) - If you have a leak down the barrel, check this o-ring for nicks/damage and replace. Also, if you have a slow bolt cycle or chopping paint, change it too.
You
do not need to lube the following o-rings:
017 (bumper seal o-ring)
021 (back cap oring) - If you remove the back cap, there is a 021 o-ring in here. Only replace if you get a leak out of the back cap / back of guide.
The Bolt
Pop the
014 o-ring off the tip with your finger as it makes it easier to slip the bolt through the bolt can. There aren't any o-rings in this section that need changing other than the
014 o-ring as it is the main o-ring to get worn. If it you notice worn detents, replace this o-ring. You need to ensure the tip and
014 o-ring is free of lube.
As for lubing, apply a good amount of lube to the flat areas of the bolt, as these will be the areas of movement and will need a good coating applied. Don't go overboard - just enough to show the colour of the lube.
The Bolt Can
Inside of Bolt Can
If you look inside the bottom of the bolt can, you will see a
019 o-ring positioned around half way up the inside of the bolt can. This is the bolt sail o-ring and if there is a problem with it, it will cause First Shot Drop Off (
FSDO) or fail to cycle the bolt properly. You will need to lube this o-ring by placing some lube on your finger, and pushing your finger up inside the bolt can and apply it to
019 o-ring.
If you look inside the top end of the bolt can, you will see a few more o-rings. Some are Ni (Buna) o-rings and some are Polyurethane. The
017 o-ring marked
A) is a Buna o-ring and is the Bolt Drive o-ring. It is the main force o-ring and will takes around 20-35 cases to see wear on it.
Next up are the two
017 Polyurethane o-rings marked
B). The one next to the Bolt Drive o-ring is called the Fill Shut Off o-ring and is used to shut off the fill after the bolt has cycled.
The other
017 o-ring on the inside of the tip of the bolt can is the Bolt Guide o-ring and if you have a leak down the barrel, check this.
All three o-rings need to be lubed.
Outside of Bolt Can
There are four
021 o-rings here; three are bunched together and one near the front of the bolt can. If you have a leak down the barrel, check the front
021 o-ring for damage. If the mid
021 o-ring is damaged, it cause bolt stick as leaking air can get trapped on the inside of the can by creating a pocket of air.
Just lightly lube all 4 o-rings with any left over lube on your fingers.
When you re-assemble the drive train, make sure there is no lube on the
014 o-ring that you took off the bolt and put it back on.
Thanks to ShootnPoo for the video guide:
The HPR
The HPR is what is used to control the amount of air which gets passed to the drive train. The main pressure is held here, and it is where the velocity is adjusted for the Demon.
Remember to ensure the marker is de-pressurised before you remove the HPR!
Once you unscrew the HPR outer casing, you are left with this:
Do not worry if the bottom works comes off inside the HPR outer casing - just use an alan key in the velocity adjustment hole to push it out. Be careful not to lose the piston spring though! Remove the piston from the HPR casing.
If you have air leaking from the top of the grip frame, then proceed to remove the HPR from the body of the Demon by gently unscrewing it until the
017 (
C on the diagram below) is visible, then you should be able to pull it out.
The air leak will most likely be coming from the
611 o-ring, so go ahead and check it for damage. If you do not have any
611 o-rings, then a
012 will work. This will be the low pressure part of the regulator.
The
017 o-ring is used to seal off the high pressure part of the regulator, so check it for damage and replace if needed.
The
018 is used to seal off the HPR to the body so it creates a tight seal.
Make sure you lube all three o-rings after cleaning off any old lube.
When you re-attach the HPR to the body, push it in so the
017 o-ring disappears into the body, then turn the thread counter clockwise to get the thread aligned correctly, then screw it in clockwise. This stops you from cross threading the threads.
Apply a small amount of lube to the inside of the HPR core (before you push the piston back in).
Apply lube to the
015 o-ring of the piston and the
007 o-ring. Try not to get any lube on the black plastic plug.
Push the piston back unto the HPR casing,
015 o-ring end first. Then mount the spring on so the piston goes through it's center as shown.
Lube both the
015 o-ring (Some people use a
014 instead, but the manual says
015) and the
017 o-ring and push it back into the HPR casing so the piston and spring go inside it.
If you are experiencing an air leak out of the velocity adjuster, you need to remove it from the bottom works and replace the two
007 o-rings as they could be damaged.
Make sure you lube both o-rings.
Screw the velocity adjuster back in and screw it down until it is around 2 threads out. This should set the marker to about 120psi which is 280-290fps.
Now place the HPR outer casing back onto the HRP system and wiggle it so that the inside aligns with the grove on the bottom works as there is a protruding bit of metal on the inside of the outer casing that is used to align it correctly. Once you get it, you will see the threads align and you can then screw it down.
Again, thanks to ShootnPoo for the video:
The Manifold
If your marker is 'puffing' then the chances are the diaphragm has become damaged. It is one of the most common issues seen with the Demon and getting to it is a pain as you have to take apart the entire marker.
Watch these videos to show you how to take apart the marker:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M42Aj0ewC0Y
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aEhqQEL51Hs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VLViK-2eKgs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=utmTfOs7wNo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xrU9axODyV4
To Remove the Manifold:
Remove the three screws and gently pull the manifold away from the body. Careful not to lose any of the small o-rings.
The Manifold, QEV and Diaphragm:
You will need to remove the two screws holding the solenoid to the manifold - use a flat headed screwdriver (electrical one works best).
Next up is to remove the QEV. Using an o-ring pick or some thin nosed tweezers, gently insert it into the tiny hole just above the QEV and slide out the QEV.
You will see the QEV comes out easily, but not all the way so using your fingernails, gently pull out the QEV.
The QEV looks like this:
The Demon's Demon - The Diaphragm.
Now, these little bad boys are what cause us Demon Lovers a lot of heart ache. The diaphragms are the most annoying part of this marker as when they go wrong, it involves stripping the marker down to replace them.
If you look inside the QEV chamber, you will see a rubber cone (hopefully) pointing out at you.
These can become shredded or dislodged. Remove the diaphragm using some tweezers and check it for any damage. You will know if your diaphragm has a problem as the marker will 'puff' when shooting, and won't shoot any balls.
And the diaphragm looks like this:
From reading various threads, it isn't often that reseating the diaphragm fixes the issue - so I would replace it whenever you have an issue with the marker 'puffing'. If you reseat it, re-assemble the marker and it still has the issue, you are going to have to take it all apart again.
Note: when putting the diaphragm back into the QEV housing, make sure the convex part is pointing outwards and the concave part sits on the air transfer tube inside the manifold. Gently push the QEV back into the manifold; make sure you don't move the diaphragm!
Re-Assembling the Grip Frame
The eye wire and the solenoid wire, I tend to push down the top side of the manifold - the opposite side from the air transfer tube. I then push the wire connectors through the grip frame and pull them gently so there isn't much slack along the manifold.
I then screw the rear frame screw into the body a few turns and if you look inside the grip frame, you will see where the screw slides into.
You can then lower the front part of the grip frame and you will see the two parts fit snugly together - but until you screw in the rear frame screw in, there will be a gap at the rear between the body and the grip frame. Tighten them both up and then reconnect the eye, solenoid and battery connectors to the board and secure the board to the grip frame.
You should now be good to use your gunslinger!
